Before you do anything, you'd better find out if you really do have AFB.  It gives off a very distinct odor and if you insert an object into one of the open cells, there will be a very grey or brownish liquid.  Also, if you would uncap a few of the brood cells, you will notice this liquid as well.  The AFB has simply broken down the larvae.  Now it could be very hard for you do detect AFB for your first time if you are just starting out.  The only reason I am good at it is because I worked on a commercial operation for several years.  It takes running into it several times before you can recognize it.  The smell is so distinct that when someone opened up a hive 20 feet away, I could tell right away.  They do sell kits to detect AFB in most beekeeping magazines.  I think one of the biggest problems most new beekeepers have is not digging into the hive and observing it enough.  Most new beekeepers are very reluctant to work their hives, perhaps because they don't know tha!
 t much
 about working them.  If I knew they had AFB, I'd probably pull the honey right away, that same hour.  Then, if it was really bad I would burn the whole colony immediately.  If it wasn't that bad, say only a few small patches on a couple of frames, I would medicate with Terramyacin right away, but would keep supers off until the situation was resolved.  You could even throw those two or so frames away.  I think George has a good plan not using Terramyacin at all, but I'm surrounded by thousands of migratory hives so I don't see how I could refrain from medication.  My bees are going to come into contact with it every year.  If I didn't treat, I'm guessing that my losses would be considerable every year.  It spreads so easily, and as soon as one hive has it, you can pretty much guess that most of the rest of your colonies have come into contact with it.  The Italians I have drift so bad and they are so prone to robbing.  Perhaps, this isn't as big of a problem with the carnio!
 lans.

Josh Jaros



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