All the talk of winter protection, wrapping, insulation, etc. from
the commercial operations in the far north have prompted me to post the
method I learned from my beekeeping association.  This method is more
suited to smaller operations and is used in less severe climates, but it
is a successful method that also qualifies for inclusion under the
FRUGAL BEEKEEPER category!
 
The method is simply to put an empty hive box (Illinois or brood depth)
on top of the inner cover, which has been covered with a piece of
burlap.  The box is then filled with straw and closed up by the outer
cover.  The straw provides insulation on top of the hive (although I
can't give an R factor), but more importantly, acts as an absorption pad
for the water vapor within the hive.  It is common to have many ice
crystals in the straw during the cold winter days, but the hive stays
dry on the warmer days when the ice melts, as the straw retains the water
and the bees remain dry.
 
There are other advantages to this method.  First, as the straw is
pulled off the bale, it separates in layers that are the perfect size
to fit into the empty box (it's almost too perfect to be coincidence).
Second, if late winter/early spring feeding is necessary the straw can
be moved aside to accommodate a pail or mason jar feeder over the inner
cover and the straw keeps the temperature of the feeder fairly constant,
thereby avoiding the problem of flooding the bees with syrup as the air
inside the feeder expands or contracts with temperature fluctuations.
Finally, when your bees have successfully over wintered (as they are
want to do with this method, provided your bees are healthy in the fall),
the straw can be used as a mulch in front of the hive in the spring to
keep the grasses down during the summer.
 
Accompanying this advice are the usually fall preparations (mouse guards
and top entrance - either an auger hole in the top box or notch in the
inner cover).  This suggestion comes from the Southern Adirondack
Beekeepers' Association.  To give an indication of our climate I will
answer some of Allen's questions (thanks to him for establishing a
barometer so the list can get a feel for the advice being posted).
 
Q: Do you use any insulation?
A: Straw (obviously)
 
Q: Do you winter the hives singly or in groups?
A: Singly
 
Q: What type of hives do you use?
A: Langstroth hives, double brood chambers.
 
Q: What is minimum acceptable hive weight going into winter?
A: At lease 75 pounds, 100 is better.
 
Q: What are you minimum and average winter temperatures?
A: -20F or lower, average around 20F
 
Q: How long at the lowest temperature?  When?
A: Two to three weeks, late January to mid February
 
Q: When is your first frost?  Last flow?
A: First frost comes and last flow ends usually late Sept to mid Oct
 
Q: When is your first pollen?  Snow melt?
A: Mid March (skunk cabbage and crocus).  In like a lion, out like a
lamb.
 
Q: Typical survival measured at May 10th
A: BM (before mites) approx 90%.  Past few years have been MUCH lower,
   perhaps 40% personally, 65% or better for other members.
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!