Tim's points about using beeswax rather than paraffin in a hot tank are all
true, and I have always wanted to use beeswax myself, but have simply been
too much of a penny pincher (I do throw in any off color beeswax that I
produce).

Perhaps I should revisit my analysis based upon Tim's point:
>Remember done properly, very little wax/rosin mix is used.

Years ago, I calculated that the wax/rosin cost about 40 cents per deep
super, but I have not rechecked that calc.  So the increased cost of beeswax
vs paraffin would not be all that much, especially in light of the long life
of the treatment, and of the boxes (essentially forever--we only lose boxes
by dropping them off the truck, running over them, or to bears--no rot).

I have not tested the life of beeswax dipping, but paraffin/rosin is indeed
long lived.  I live in a climate with a very wet winter, and hot, dry
summer.  I have dipped boxes that have spent 25 years in the elements, and
although weathered to a natural gray color, still have plenty of life.  Most
have had at least one redip.

In general, we redip when the wood looks "dry" on the outside, which varies
greatly from box to box, dependent upon the wood grain.  We use the dip to
melt off all burr comb and propolis, and scrape the box while hot (only
takes seconds).

Tim, I'm curious--have you actually tested the life of beeswax-dipped
boxes?  Does beeswax indeed hold up as well as paraffin/rosin?

Randy Oliver

             ***********************************************
The BEE-L mailing list is powered by L-Soft's renowned 
LISTSERV(R) list management software.  For more information, go to:
http://www.lsoft.com/LISTSERV-powered.html