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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
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Wed, 12 Nov 2014 05:55:08 -0500
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10/28/14 Juanse said:
>Anyone that have a honey house with floor heating can share its
desing/specs?

Juanse:
I don't have a radiant slab heated honey house & hot room, but radiant slab heat has been~is popular here in new construction (and some retrofit) both residential & commercial.  37m2 (~400ft2) would be a piece of cake.
There are a wide variety materials and equipment available, so cost effective design is very dependent on the specific details of the intended application. 

Here's some basics:
Over-sizing any heating system is a Bad idea on several levels; poor efficiency, reduced equipment life are 2 of many.

Barrier Pex piping (O2 barrier) in concrete slab on grade is only moderately more expensive than conventional hydronic baseboard heating; the cost difference largely due to the Specific controls REQUIRED (!!).
Avoid heating w/barrier pex Under wood: don't go there, results are disappointing. Wood's an insulator, has little thermal mass, etc. Certainly can be and is done, (largely retrofit), but even then, it rarely makes any economic sense.  Esthetic "sense" is another matter; warm floors can't be beat, even if they cost a lot to install and are inefficient. 
While unique circumstances probably exist, I am not aware of any situation which justifies  barrier pex installation in walls.  Makes no sense to have an insulator between the heat source and area to be heated.   
Should you actually need high demand heat supplement, best bet would be 1 or 2 very small ceiling hung unit heater/s.

Use Only o2 Barrier PEX-a or PEX-b (sometimes called hePex:  -b preferred) with ASTM F876/F877  (Canadian CSA B137-Series 5) certification
Do Not use PEX-c
Do Not use Pex-Al-Pex (multi-layer pex) 
Do Not use "sharkbite" or compression fittings
While they are probably adequate, I would Not use S.S. crimp ring fittings. I would Only use the expensive "expander" fittings & rings.

Were I to build a honey hot room, I would likely:
Undersize the slab heat
have 2 small unit heaters w/ fans wired to switch on continuously
provide for lots of air movement through the stacked supers
have a floor drain
have several small dehumidifiers soft-piped to drain
have power washable floor,walls,ceiling
have 2 part industrial epoxy floor coating or better
…. I would look hard at the feasibility of an easily movable insulation wall  to subdivide the Well insulated hot room. The idea would be to utilize a smaller area as a Freezer to treat comb for wax moth -SHB(?), and if history, here, is a sort of indicator -- perhaps suppress a host of other apis mellifera parasites.

--- I know folks here who do this stuff all the time.  If it helps, I would connect you with someone to do your specific  heat/insulation design & materials takeoffs.
Intelligent design is the best bang your buck will get here.

Oscar Beadles  (Fairbanks)

 

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