BEE-L Archives

Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

BEE-L@COMMUNITY.LSOFT.COM

Options: Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
"Gordon D. Hayes" <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Discussion of Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 1995 23:48:48 -0400
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (28 lines)
>hello,
>        Being the new kid on the block, maybe I am missing out on the logic
>of using a follower board. Why would you want to reduce your hive
 
I too am kinda the new kid on the block. But I believe the logic behind the
use of follower boards is thus.
 
The use of 10 frames in a 10 frame hive box makes it difficult to remove the
first frame when working a hive. Follower boards are used to make this less
of a problem. Correct me if I am wrong.
 
I normally use only nine frames in my hive boxes (brood and supers both). I
use frame spacers myself. The reason for doing this in the brood boxes is
supposedly to lessen the possibility of injuring the queen when working in
the brood box. This may or may not be so. But it is the way I was taught. I
might add that I use 10 frames of foundation when starting a new hive.
Again, the way I was taught. :)
 
The use of 9 frames in the supers makes more sense. The bees draw the comb
out fuller and it is easier to uncap the comb for extraction.
 
It's like a fellow beekeeper told me, "There are as many ways to keep bees
as there are beekeepers."
 
gh
[log in to unmask]
[log in to unmask]

ATOM RSS1 RSS2