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From:
"Dave Green, Eastern Pollinator Newsletter" <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Discussion of Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Mon, 4 Nov 1996 09:01:57 -0500
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In a message dated 96-11-03 19:22:19 EST, [log in to unmask] (Kirk Jones)
writes:
 
<< I plan to put a soaker hose over a load of bees (under the net) to water
 them when they reach warmer temperatures. Question...what would be the best
 instructions to give an inexperienced driver?
 
 I thought it would be a good idea to water them down if he stops briefly
 during the day and temps were 80 degrees F or hotter.
 
 If anyone has some advice, I'm listening. >>
 
 
     You are unlikely to have any problems at this (autumn) end of the
journey.  Going back north in the spring is where you usually hit problems.
 I once got caught in a construction-caused traffic jam in North Carolina at
90 degrees F.  The lower hives, that had the least ventilation melted down.
 I got off an exit and hosed them down at a truck stop, which I'm sure saved
some.
 
   I have also saved loads in trouble by altering my route to go over the
pass to Winchester, VA.  It may be 90 in Richmond, but 65 with a good stiff
wind at the top of the pass.  But better have good brakes before trying any
mountain climbing.
 
   If you are running Interstate 75, you might try to schedule the trip so
the hottest part of the day you are in eastern Tennessee, where it is coolest
due to elevation.
 
    Coming down:   If they have been unable to have a cleansing flight for a
few days, you'll have fun unloading them.  Try to schedule early morning
unloading, if at all possible.  You'll still get painted, but you don't want
to try it in late morning or afternoon. Besides the paint job, it get's kind
of hard to work in the dark (so many bees in the air!).
 
   But they'll stay in, as long as you keep rolling, on the way down.  You
are unlikely now to hit 80 degrees, unless you are going way to South
Florida.  Our hot spell has broken here in S Carolina.  We were in the mid
80's twice last week, but only for a couple hours each day.  This morning,
with ice on the windshield, I wouldn't expect to see 80 again until spring.
 Our growing season is now over, for any frost-tender plants.
 
    On second thought, if you are going way south, and you arrive in the
evening, with overnight temps above 60 or so, you might want to connect the
soaker hose for an hour to cool them; otherwise you may have a lot of bees
outside the hives.  Again, plan to get them off EARLY.
 
    In the spring, when you are more likely to have significant difficulty,
cooling can be vital.  If you can schedule a rainy day, you are in fat city,
but all-day rains don't often happen here in spring.  Soaker hoses are a good
idea, if you know where you can find a hose quickly.  Otherwise, just
spraying the bees will work.  If you have to run in extreme heat, it is worth
it to get a block of ice chopped at a truck stop, early in the morning.  Blow
the ice on top, and let it drip down through the load.  It may give the bees
enough relief to get you through the worst of the day.
 
   If you are hiring trucking, know your trucker, or GO WITH HIM, no matter
how tired you are.  Loads of bees have been lost, by truckers who promise to
go straight through, but have a girlfriend enroute.  A load parked in the sun
for just a couple hours, is probably a dead load.  And it is very hard to
collect on cargo insurance, not to speak of dealing with the apple grower who
is waiting for the bees.
 
    You'll find yourself chewing fingernails from the time the truck is
loaded, until it is unloaded back north.
 
    One common mistake for first timers is to have the bees TOO STRONG when
trucking back north.  A ten frame hive should have no more than four frames
of brood for a long run north about May 1.  The strongest, most congested
hives are the ones that will all run out en masse, abandoning brood, and
though the adults may not die, the hive is dead, at that point.
 
    If I had to truck, with no cool or rainy spells in sight, I think I'd
spend the last day before trucking, shaking packages or removing excess brood
from the stronger ones.
Leave the brood in nucs for the next trip, or sell it.
 
   Another approach that could help a lot, but means a lot more equipment, is
top and bottom screens.  If you have these, with tight equipment, and water
hosing, you can truck anything just about anywhere, anytime.  Few beekeepers
use this method though, at least on the east coast.  Few beekeepers even have
really tight equipment, not to speak of the extra cost and weight of the
equipment.
 
   I hope I've reassured you on the trip down, but am afraid I've given you
more to fear in the spring.
 
    One factor that I think makes a significant difference is that the bees
are pretty dormant now.  They haven't had much to do for a while, don't
expect much to do for a while, and they are pretty content to just relax and
enjoy the ride. They'll be happily surprised to find blooming spanish needle,
etc. in the south, but they don't know that till they get there.
 
   On the return trip in the spring, bees have been working hard on spring
bloom.  When daylight arrives, they expect to go out again.  When they can't,
they get frantic, and begin the chain reaction that gets you into problems.
 The more excited they get, the more heat they create, and the more heat, the
more excited they get.
 
   Good luck, and happy traveling.  Stop by here on the way back.
 
[log in to unmask]    Dave Green,  PO Box 1200,  Hemingway,  SC
29554        (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service,  Pot o'Gold Honey Co.)
 
Practical Pollination Home Page            Dave & Janice Green
http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

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