> The need for this beeway is dictated by your equipment.  The hive body
> you put the frames in is supposed to be 5/16" deeper than the frames used
> in it, in order that when the body (box) is stacked on another the bees
> will not glue it together or fill it with bur comb.  The rabbit that the
> frames hang from determines where the bee space is located.  It can be at
> the top, at the bottom, or split between top and bottom.
 
This is the essence of the matter, and why many use sacks, canvas, vinyl,
carpet, plastic, etc. under the lid.  It is also the only good reason
to buy only new equipment -- and from only one manufacturer.  It seems
every different builder of supers has a different idea of how much bee
space to use and where to put it.
 
When stacking boxes made by different bee houses, a beekeeper may find
that he/she has a double bee space between two supers, then no bee space
between the next two.  Moreover, many home builders play fast and loose
with the dimensions and a real variety can be found in many outfits.  One
common error is to cut the boards to width before the wood dries and
shrinks or to try to get by with 10" nominal lumber and wind up with a
scant 9-1/2 inch box.
 
Sacks and the like eliminate the need for accuracy in dimensions under
lids.  It doesn't matter if the lid is 1/2" or even more above the frames,
since the sack or whatever is in contact with them and peels off easily.
 
So, the preference for one inner cover over another -- or even
the use of inner covers at all -- may simply come down to how well built
your equipment is.  In my case, although I do have thousands of brand new
boxes, they are from several makers, and I do also have some that are 35
years old.  It seems my equipment has been made in just about every
woodworking shop and backyard garage in North America:(  For me sacks and
plastic pillows have been the best since they accommodate all the
diversity and also allow for putting patties under the lids without
running for rims or scraping.
 
While mentioning sacks and canvas, and plastic, I should mention the need
for bee passageways over top of the frames in winter and also for access
to oxytet dust if placed on top bars.  Small sticks are sometimes used for
this, although after some burr comb builds up there from reversing, the
bees can usually get through well enough for winter purposes.
 
Allen
 
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