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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sun, 23 Dec 2012 11:25:20 -0700
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 > I'd be curious to hear discussion on the fine points of absorbent vs
nonabsorbent insulation above the cluster.

I think that absorbent material might be more suited to milder
climates.  Where I am, we want to ensure that water does not condense
and freeze above the cluster into a chunk of ice.  If it does, it will
drip.  Some use a permeable lid like burlap with shavings over top and a
lid, but the idea is that the water is wicked away and sublimated into
the surroundings, not trapped.

So, hard materials with low specific heat, like plastic film backed by
insulation, that do not form a block of ice seem best where I am,
combined with just sufficient ventilation to take the water vapours
outside without taking all the warmth along with it.

Humidity inside a hive is not a bad thing as bees need water and tend to
maintain a fairly high and constant humidity inside the cluster if they
can do so.  They control both temperature and humidity with little
effort if conditions are right and some condensation on the lid near,
but not over the cluster can actually be good in a dry climate like ours.

Too much or too little heat gain or loss is a problem for a colony. Too
much or too little humidity is a problem, also.  If either approaches
the high or low limit, though, the stress on the bees and their
resources increases greatly.  If control is impossible, then the colony
suffers greatly and may sicken and die.

Just as in summer, in winter there are many hive setups that work. The
goal of any wintering system is to provide an environment that allows
the bees can control the heat and humidity near the middle of their
ideal at all times and which seldom subjects them to stress from excesses.

That means not too much or too little ventilation, and some condensed
moisture for them to use, but not to the point where water is dripping
on warm days.

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