Hello Michelle,
Dan has raised some good points and i would like to comment and add to
the points.
Bob

dan hendricks wrote:

 I have some suggestions but may I start
 at the beginning?  The dominant feature of an OH is
 that it has one queen for 2 frames instead of one
 queen for 10 or 20, thus it has "too much queen".
 This will result in overpopulation and swarming.

The Draper hive has three full size frames which is a big advantage over
all others which are mostly a deep and a 6 5/8. Three deep frames gives
you extra swarm protection. consider a ob like you would a small nuc.
With the Draper hive you need to keep both top frames full of honey if
possible. With only one frame of brood i doubt you will have a swarming
problem. Top two full frames of honey and bottom frame brood is the way
all i have seen are set up. If you can get a deep super or two of honey
you can double wrap with trash bags and store in a freezer. Take a
couple frames out and let defrost at room temp. Pull middle frame or
middle and top if the nest is expanding too fast and replace with full
frames of sealed honey. You should be back to the original plan with two
sealed honey above and a nice frame of brood,queen and  bees to cover.
Give the two frames you removed to your other hive outside. Field bees
can be a problem as they tend to run on the glass making the glass apear
dirty so the bottom brood frame may need to be changed. Consult your
mentor as a you may need help restoring the ob hive.  You can allways
feed through top hole with a bear but i don't recommend feeding as bees
tend to mess up glass but i have fed before. Also without a huge amount
of pollen comming in brood rearing is somewhat restricted. Remember all
a ob hive needs to show is a queen, brood (eggs and larva at
times),usually at least a few drones and sealed honey(pollen you can
point out if in the hive but not absolutely necessary to have a good OB
hive). You need to be alert to a queens not laying. OB hives can get
smaller.
What we tried which didn't work was putting two mt drawn comb or
foundation above. The young queen will quickly lay all over all three
frames . Many times she will lay a egg on foundation and expect her
throng to draw the cell.
What was tried that will work is to start with three full frames of
sealed honey and install the Kelley *Ob hive package with queen* and let
nature take its course. The bees eat out a perfect pattern and the queen
lays in the mt cells. Problem here is they pick the nest location  and
can be the top frame. With the Draper OB hive frames come out the
front(great feature) so all you need to do is carefully remove frame and
place in bottom position. Bees allways want to move upward. I don't want
to make setting up the hive seem too hard because it really isn't. Print
out these emails for reference. Email me and i will try to help if
problems arise.
Dan wrote:
   an OH must be operated in conjunction with a full
 sized hive so that frames of brood can be moved out of
 the OH and replaced with empty ones.

Another hive is needed as Dan says. I would follow however the plan
above if useing the Draper hive. Using the full frames of honey to slow
hive growth. One thing i have learned about bees is when all combs are
full of honey they stop . You want the queen to be constantly looking
for a place to lay but do not provide unlimited laying area in the OB
hive.
Dan Wrote:
 What this leads
 to is that the OH needs to have two frames of the same
 size and the same size as the full size hive.  I
 prefer deeps.
I agree completely on this point. In my opinion Ob hives with a frame
and a 6 5/8 frame are poor choices for year around ob hives. Best left
for weekend shows and trips to the schools.
Sincerely,
Bob Harrison
P.S. thanks Michelle for the direct email. I am posting my reply as i
feel others on the list might find the information useful.

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