If you just use the fork to scratch/puncture the cappings (as opposed to
lifting them off the comb surface) you just end up with lots more wax
particles in the honey, then, to strain out?   If you really have the knack
of it, you can lift the cappings off with a fork practically dry.
 
Which brings to mind the "Hackler Honey Punch," which is a spiky roller you
pass over the comb, to punch holes in the cappings.  Anybody tried this?
It is easier than uncapping, certainly, but it appears you wouldn't end up
with much wax when you were done.  The punched combs go back onto the hive,
and the bees chew off the remaining cappings, and they fall to the floor as
garbage.
 
It may depend on how you view cappings in the first place -- either as an
annoyance to just deal with, or instead as a substantial part of what you
are harvesting as your crop.  Thick combs and a deep cut yield a
substantial amount of the highest quality, lemon-yellow wax.
 
Next time around, when the supers go back on, the bees rapidly build the
combs back out and thereby make good use of the wax they are producing
during a nectar flow anyway.
 
I'd be interested to know what the common frame-spacing practice is when
chain or flail-type auto uncappers (or Gunness) are used.  Is there then
any advantage to wide combs...?
 
I have a Maxant hand-plane, and have found that wide combs are often more
difficult to uncap that way.  The plane can only take off so much.  With a
flat knife you can cut right in across the top and bottom bars, if you
don't mind the wax.
 
comments?   thanks...
 
jg
 
..........................................
<snip>> If you drag the fork
>across the comb it works just as well and the operation is completely
>mindless.
 
>Donald Aitken
>11710-129 Street
>Edmonton Alberta Canada
>T5M 0Y7