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Subject:
From:
Ivan McGill <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Discussion of Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sun, 2 Mar 1997 20:27:00 PST
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>On Sun, 2 Mar 1997, Dennis wrote:
>
>> In response to Brian Tasseys' question about bear fences...
>>
>> One (possible) way to build them is with standard field fence, 6" x 6"
>>'woven' wire, that is mounted to a piece of PVC pipe (cheap black plastic
>>works) sliped over a steel fence post as an insulator.
>>
>> Remember that electric fences need good 'grounding' to work properly.
>>Dry ground may require a bit of help with a grounding grid on the
>>outside of the electrified fence.  That can be another piece of field
>>fence that is layed flat and pinned to the ground with some simple U
>>shaped pieces of wire.
>>
>> Keep the electrified wires clear of the ground and grass, weeds, etc.,
>>get as good a charger as you can, and good luck.
> >
> Hi ,  I use normal aluminum electric fence wire. Three strands, the hot
>ones are on the top and bottem. I use pig steel posts with insulators. The
>key is the sardine cans that you wire to the top hot wire every 20 to 30
>feet. Punch some holes in the cans. The sardines I use are packed in oil.I
>have been doing this for 25 years and I have seen some outstanding tell
>tail signs of what happens when the bear grabs the can in its mouth.I bet
>they are good for two miles before they look over there shoulder. They
>don't come back and you could plant a garden in the ground that they work
>up as they try for traction.
> The wires are spaced 12 inches from the ground for the first one then 12
>inches above that for the ground wire then 12 inches above that with the
>hot wire for the sardine cans. They go for the sardines first and then
>they are history.
>Best Regards
>
>Roy
 
one question:
 
How you anchor the corner posts?
 
Ivan

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