BEE-L Archives

Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

BEE-L@COMMUNITY.LSOFT.COM

Options: Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
Bob and Elizabeth Harrison <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Date:
Fri, 5 Jan 2001 21:31:25 -0600
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (71 lines)
Hello Michael & all,

Sullivan, Michael wrote:
 I am going to try to get them out using a screen cone and a bait hive.
I read many of the posts on BEE-L and I have a few more questions.

 1. When is the best time to attempt this? The hives are in California,
so the bees will fly all winter. Should I try it now when the population
is low  or wait until spring when nectar is available?

In my opinion when there is no nectar flow is best and for the duration
of trying to remove the bees.

 2. How long should I wait to get a queen? Should I have one as soon as
the  bees start to enter the bait hive or should I let them live in the
hive for  a while before introducing a queen.

I don't know what posts you read or what has been written but seems to
me question 2 is not the way I would do the procedure.  In a earlier
post I posted a address you could order a video which shows me removing
a swarm from a tree with a funnel and a hive. I will post my way but
keep in mind the procedure can take one to several weeks.

1. block all exits the bees are using from the house but one.

2. put a screen funnel on the entrance (large base of about six inch and
small exit about the size a single bee could squeeze thru or about
5/16.) Struggle to get out works best.

3. Have a strong hive with queen within 3 feet of the funnel. This is
the part you might not like working on the second floor. Even your best
beekeeping buddy might seem reluctant to help. You might get the
procedure to work with a single story weak hive but would take longer
for the robbing to occur.

4. as the bees leave the building thru the funnel they can't find their
way back in and join the hive outside( not allways sometimes they
cluster on the funnel). If they cluster on the outside of the funnel
move the outside hive closer.

5. The population grows outside and then dwindles in the building
swarm(way its supposed to work)

6.when you are sure almost all the bees are out of the building swarm
you remove the funnel and let the strong hive rob the building swarm of
its honey ( sometimes a flow will start and they will forget robbing).

 Would I use the above in your case. No! I would remove a board and
remove the bees comb and all(one comb at a time) and put in a hive. I
did a step by step post on bee removal a few months back.  No honey
running out the wall this summer in case the bees don't rob out the
building swarm.  Our video shows many building removal jobs and several
from second floors.  I only use the funnel and hive when removing swarms
from trees.  The last was a tree in a cemetery.  The funnel system
worked but I have had failures.  The video tape is a hour long and is
the only video of its type I have ever seen.  Email me direct to order.
Many will post about what they have seen done in a book or a magazine.
I have done both of the above and know what I am talking about.
People pay to get bees removed from buildings and in most cases they
should (probabbly not in your case).  Very few people remove bees from
buildings.  My fellow beekeepers and I do and charge according to the
amount of work involved.  If you live around a large town or city *bee
removal* might be of interest.  The Midwestern Beekeepers Assn.
contracted a professional to do the video.  The video is available
directly from him and neither I or Midwestern gets a Penny.  I will
email any interested beekeepers his business address and you can contact
him directly.  Hope I have helped.
Sincerely,
Bob Harrison
Odessa,Missouri

ATOM RSS1 RSS2