<<<<<<Does anyone fine-filter honey direct from the extractor?  I only have
3 hives
at the moment, but my experience is that honey straight from the extractor
is
too cool to run through the finish filter.  It just clogs too
quickly.>>>>>>
 
I assume the writer of the above means straining rather than filtering.  
There is a difference.  Straining honey means letting it pass through a
fine mesh of  cloth or metal under gravity.  To pass through an efficient 
strainer the honey needs to be warmed to around 100 degrees F. (38C).  
Straining will remove all visible particles but not pollen grains or fine 
air bubbles which make the honey appear cloudy.  It is a treatment quite
adequate for the hobby beekeeper.
Filtration requires the honey to be quite hot, 140-167 degrees F. (60-75C)
and forced under pressure through a very fine filter which will remove
pollen grains, air bubbles and other fine particles that a strainer would 
let through.  This is for the commercial men.  The result is a crystal
clear liquid that looks very attractive on the shop shelf  but in the
opinion of many, reduced in quality.
 
I would never advise straining direct from the extractor.  The honey will 
contain a large quantity of wax particles and other fragments which will
quickly clog the strainer, even if  the honey is warm   Far better to let 
it stand in a settling tank for two or three days in a warm room by which 
time 99.9% of the solids present, mainly wax particles, will have risen to
the top inch and the honey will have strained itself.  This is all that is
required for domestic use.  Further straining is just a final precaution if
you market it.           
 
<<<<<>I have seen queens parasitized by the bee louse.  However, the bee
louse is a
>beggar parasite and does not cause physical damage.>>>>>>
 
This is true but in quantity I think the queen could suffer distress.  I
once, and only once in a long time, found a queen smothered in Braula.
I placed her is a honey jar and puffed in a little tobacco smoke, not
enough to poison the queen.  This made the lice fall off.  I counted a
total of fifty seven lice.  That queen must have been most unhappy.  
Luckily Apistan seems to be effective  on Braula as well as varroa.
 
<<<<I store my supers in a shed in plastic bags. Also add a sheet of
kitchen
adsorbent paper. Give it a "slosh" of 80% Acetic acid. This kills wax moth
and nosema. The smell is gone by the spring and the wax moth can not enter
the bags.>>>>>>
I must disagree with regard to waxmoth.  I use an old deep freezer as a
fumigation chamber.  All spare brood combs go into it with acetic acid for
a fortnight or more as a precaution against nosema.  I removed one batch
after the usual time to find some very active and fully developed moth
larvae.                         Sid P.