> > >
> > > All of my wraps are custom made 6 mil poly blankets with R12 fibregalass.
> > > The biggest
> > > problem for lengevity is the breakdown of the mateial when exposed to the
> > > sun.  To avoid the sun, I alternate between putting the joint on the
> > > North, then the South, then turning it inside out.  Before I did this, I
> > > was discarding wraps that had completely broken down in one area.
> >
> > I gather that the wraps are made from black plastic.  This is
> > interesting to know because I assumed that this stuff is UV resistant
> > and would last as long as the material that Inland Plastics uses.
>
> Somewhat UV resistant.  If the same surface is exposed each year, after 3
> or 4 years is is paper thin and brittle and tears very easily.  I have a
> supplier that will supply me with poly of almost any specifications.
> Note that if you purchase 6 mil what you get is 6 mil equivilent.
> Something like buying 2x4 lumber.  With this supplier I get any thickness
> up to a real 6 mil.  I also can get any width I desire.  The production
> process is interesting.  It is produced first as a long tube and then
> sliced.  That is, 80 inch wide would first be a 40 inch tube.  If you
> ever have need of a tube or a bag (simply have the end sealed, then this
> is something to keep in mind.  The supplier is SUPERPOLY in Edmonton and,
> perhaps, Calgary.
>
> >
> > I just am in the process of finishing making some plastic bags of top
> > insulation from this stuff and was contemplatng making some bags that
> > I could stuff the rolled up wraps into.  The plan was to use them for
> > for outside summer storage so that the wraps would  last even longer
> > and not get water into them or have the top  bags exposed to the sun.
> >
> I custom make my own wraps and bags for the top.  SUPERPOLY will supply
> almost any size I wish, as bags or tubes, or sheets, clear or black.  I
> then cut if necessary and seal with heat.  Many beekeepers use a
> household clothes iron and tin foil to heat.  I could never get a nice
> seal with this method and at best the edge was scalloped.  Then a friend
> in the construction industry gave me a great tool.  Its heating surface
> is about 2 inches by 14 inches.  Thermostat controled. Covered with
> Teflon.  The right tool makes all the difference.
>
> If you wish to store your wraps on site, and if you feed with drums, you
> might try stuffing some of the wraps into the drum.
>
> I bring all of my wrapping material back to the honey house, throw the
> good wraps up in a barn loft, and the damages ones into the honey house.
> A rainy day project is to repair or replace these damaged wraps.  As long
> as the wrap has not suffered from UV deterioration, and the insulation is
> sound, we just keep patching.  I have some that have several lavers of
> patches and may be more patch than original.  When the insulation is no
> longer good, or the plastic has disintegrated, I split it open, put the
> good wraps in a new blanket, take the junk insulation and use it in a bag
> for upper insullation.
>
> >
> > (I am starting to think this is cheap after experiencing  the amount
> > of work that goes into getting the top pillows aready and making the
> > upper entrance holes in the wraps.)
> >
> > BTW we've now eliminated the plywood by having larger flaps put on
> > the wraps themselves.
>
> I would like to hear more about this.  I have looked at several designs
> and have not found anything I am happy with.  Could I simply seal a large
> rectangle to my side blanket, making it look like a 'T' ?
>
> >
> > This brings up the questions: How big should the hole be?  And when
> > should one unwrap?  How much feed could be consumed by excess
> > fanning?  And How many bees will fly out in inclement weather if the
> > hive gets too warm?
>
> I would like to hear some feedback on this but in my opinion, it is not
> the insulation that heats the hive.  It simply prevents the loss of
> heat.  But this works both ways.  I believe that wrapped hives do not
> heat up as early in the day.
>
> >
> > I've gone to unwrapping earlier (March) in cases where the bees
> > bother the neighbours.  It noticably cuts down the bees flying around
> > when there is nothing to gather.
> >
> Could this be that the bees are needed to control the hive temperature?
>
> > >
> > > Any thoughts on what the insulation does?  We know that the bees cluster
> > > and maintain the temperature in the cluster, allowing the balance of the
> > > hive to become cold.  So what good does the insulation do?  Here is my
> > > hypothesis - I think the insulation simply moderates the rapid changes in
> > > temperature and allows the bees time to organize.  In the spring the top
> > > insulation may be of more use.
> >
> > Well, I agree with that, but would add that the insulation allows
> > the cluster to be larger than it would otherwise be bt twice.  Top
> > insulation allows the cluster to form a half basketball form aginst
> > the lid instead of a basketball shape below the lid - in effect by
> > mirroring back the heat.
> >
> > This is readily observable on opening hives with and without top
> > insulation.
> >
> > We also often fail to distinguish between the winter dormant state
> > with no or little brood,  and the phase whare the bees ramp up to
> > maximum possible brood rearing.
> >
> > I believe that the insulation does little in the former state, but
> > is very crucial in the latter.  In the latter the bees _will_ heat the
> > whole hive as much as they can and insulation and controlled
> > ventillation will help a lot.
>
> Agreed.  But I think it is rare, in cold weather, that the entire hive is
> warm enought for brood rearing.
>  >
> > This latter activity happens to coincide witht a time when the bees
> > are old, populations are decreasing due to age, food is scarcer, and
> > diseases are increasing in the hive.
> >
> > > Here is another hypothesis I would like to hear about - Feed left in the
> > > hive is important to eat but it is equally as important as a heat simk.
> >
> > I would prefer to use the words 'heat reservoir', because the heat
> > flow is two way, but that is just being picky; I agree with you.
> >
> > Anything that slows the changes of temperature in the hive helps the
> > bees.
> > Regards
> >
>
> I know this is getting to be a long message but I hesitate to delete much
> of Allen's comments as they are useful enough to be read again.  Besides,
> it is not that often that we agree :)
>
> Eric
>
Eric Abell
Gibbons, Alberta
Canada