The "standard" hive stand around here is made of 2x4 or 2x6 material,
simply a rectangle which will hold 2 colonies with 6-18 inches between
them.  Having hives in pairs reduces drifting, and with pairs you can
approach either hive from the side as well as from the back.
 
I am also currently using wooden pallets, which can be picked up for free
at many businesses, after they have been used for shipping.  The pallets
will hold 4 colonies like this ::  but I just put two on them ..  and leave
the rest of the surface jutting out in front of the hives.  This helps to
keep the flight area clear of grass and other plants.  The pro blems with
pallets are 1) they're not very high off the ground, maybe 4-6", and 2)
they tend to warp over time, leaving the hives tipping a bit.  This can be
corrected by wedging little pieces of wood under the hive corners as
necessary.  Still, too, pallets tend to weaken, and the thin boards on the
surface can rot and break, so see that the hives well-supported, with the
weight securely distributed over the  heavier cross-members underneath.
Though they are low, my bees in upstate NY appear to winter fine on
pallets, when provided with upper entrances.  (The lower ones are often
blocked by snow.)
 
Some folks use old tires/rims but this looks kind-of funny.  I used to use
cement blocks but with outyards this is way too much work/weight.  Scrap
boards nailed up or stacked are fine if nothing else is available.  Height
is a consideration (though a high stand is better for the bees).  It
becomes difficult to work towering, supered colonies when they are up past
your chest.  The pretty sloping hive stands sold by the suppliers are IMO
too low and not really worth the money.  The bees hardly ever use the ramp.
I hope this is helpful -- JWG