> 3)  It is not too much trouble to cut some 1/4-inch luan plywood and
>     nail it to the base of the screen assembly, which creates a place
>     for the sticky board, and increases the structural strength of the
>     thing considerably.  A nailed or screwed-in solid "plug" for the
>     front gap between plywood and screen, and a removable solid
>     "plug" for the rear are also good ideas for those who don't like
>     random beasties taking up residence under their hives.

Instead of a solid bottom, I build mine the same as those from Brushy Mtn --
with criss-crossed strings (slots could also be used, depending on the
"sticky board" size) on the underside to hold a stiff piece of plastic (for
checking mites), allowing the bottom to remain open most of the time (rather
than accumulating wax moths as a nailed-on bottom or a second bottom board
does -- been there, tried that).  Also, it is more convenient to open an
area on the bottom of the screened board (i.e., remove some of the bottom
bracing at the rear), so that you can insert your "sticky board" from the
rear, rather than the front.  It is easier to build the bottom board to be
checked from the front, but then you stand in front of the bees while
messing with the board and counting mites (or move a lot).  Checking from
the rear, the bees seldom pay attention to you and you are less likely to
get a few extra stings for your efforts.

Karen

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