Hi
 
        I watched the on going discussion on how to find queens
with interest. However in the many replies nobody seems to have
nominated the hive size/type to which their technique applies.
 
        For instance, ther are different techniques for each hive
type ie. WSP, ideal, langstroth, mating colonies (nucs). While
the general principle of scaning is common to all types of
equipment, actually determining the approximate location of the
brood area and hence the queen is different in each case. Additionally,
many people choose not to use queen excluders so the brood area may cover
many levels of a strong colony depending on its type.   The other
most critical point in finding the queen is doing it in a manner
that is swift with out risk to the queen.
 
        A general method for langstroth colonies(plus queen excluder) is
to smoke both the entrance and under the lid with a minimal
amount of smoke (just enough to settle the bees). To much smoke
distresses the bees and tends to make them run across the combs.
Then quickly remove any supers and then the queen excluder.
In the southern hemisphere the brood area tends to be on the
north-eastern side of the colony so remove the outside comb from
this side and the second comb in from the other side. If these
contain brood scan for the queen, otherwise don't bother.
Then from the north-eastern side remove successive combs firstly
checking for eggs and then scanning the comb. After scanning the
comb, rest the comb on its end, leaning the comb against the hive
(if its not to cold).
 
        By removing the comb from the opposite side away from the
brood you generally stop the queen from going onto the wall of the hive.
A fine point of technique is not to use jerky movements, ie. when you
get stung while handling combs as the queen is often easily dislodged
and falls from the comb.
 
        For all those out there that were gloves when working
over bee hives, try to do with out these as they tend to make you
less competent when handling frames. More bees tend to get
squashed under your fingers and bees when stinging gloves leave
venom behind which tends to attract more bees to your hands.
 
        For nucleus colonies, smoke as above and the remove the
outside comb on the opposite side to the brood and then work
across from the brood side of the colony. All those with
experience should be able to tell where the brood is by looking
down between the frames from above before the first frame is
removed.
 
        For mini-nucs (mating colonies), before you remove any
combs listen to the sound the bees make when you remove the lid
and look at the posture of th bees on top of the frames.
A higher pitched sound then normal and abdomens  in the air and
you don't usually have a queen. What about virgins ? Replenish the
brood in the nuc with a frame of brood covered in bees and let these
bees  kill the virgin, don't waste your time. On average, twenty percent
of the time mating nucs wont have a queen so don't waste time looking
for a queen or eggs using the normal systematic approach. Pull a frame
from the centre of the cluster and check for eggs, no eggs no queen.
If the nuc is quiet, remove frames from the side away from the brood
area and scan. A good queen catcher from mating nucs should average
40 queens caught per hour.
 
        The point is, use a  systematic approach suitable for the
type of equipment. Use as little smoke as possible and don't be
jerky in your movements. For all those with minimal bee
experience, don't get frustrated you can always put the hive back
together and look later. I find that the harder you try and the
more frustrated you get the harder the job and the more stings
you get. Bees, like dogs, seem to be able to sense your mood and
if your scared then you usually get more stings.
 
Robert  Rice
CSIRO Division of Entomology
Canberra.
 
E-mail [log in to unmask]