>I used and tested aplife var for around four years. I think the information
from Canada Allen posted was similar to my findings. poor results in cold
weather.

Also a problem in Missouri hot weather ( temps over 90F.) with dead brood
but you do get control in the hot temps. When my statements are taken out of
context at times its even hard for me to follow.

My  observations mirror label temp. concerns and those using their own
concoctions of both api life var and apigard in hive treatments should
observe these temp concerns.

I might add both the makers *in my opinion* are pushing the otter limits a
bit ESPECIALLY ON THE HIGH TEMPS BUT TO A DEGREE ON THE COLD TEMPS.

The label for api life var:
Quote:
"treatment most at effective average ( average is a grey area and makers do
not say what to do when temps are below or above and for how long) daytime
temps of 65F. to 95F."

the label for apiguard:
temperatures 60F. - 105F.

I would NEVER place 50 ml of apiguard on a hive with prolonged temps of 100F
and above. One year we had temps over a 100F for eleven days with the top
high temp of 110F.

I put some apiguard on some hives this morning. I have used thymol every
year since the fall of 1998 when Steve Forrest spent the money to get thymol
registered for use in the U.S. ( Missouri).
I believe api life var is very similar in control but is not only thymol.

The recipe for apiguard is on the internet. Opps!

The reason many commercial beekeepers did not care for both products was the
mess from smearing on frames with migratory tops. My answer from the start
has been to make some well built spacers. They are fairly cheap ( less than
a buck a piece with new wood) and I have some spacers which have been in use
for over a decade. With spacers you can use thymol meds without the mess ( I
would use the same paper with api life var or similar homemade beneath api
l;ife var) , place pollen subs on top ( instead of breaking the hive bodies
to place and to check when gone) and place formic acid pads if you use
those.

I cut up old supers and hive bodies for awhile for spacers but then said the
hell with this ( hard on even old saw blades and parts of nails flying) and
went to cutting up new 1X2's.

>That was about all he said. Doesn't say why he quit using it, unless he is
>implying that doesn't get warm weather when he needs it.

With IPM ( and careful testing) at times thymol works great. As does formic
acid. Both have limits and the main consideration is the temperature during
treatment. The big problem the makers do not point out is *if* you grab the
wrong product off the shelf and the treatment is done late and at the end of
treatment plenty of varroa remain then you might not have time for another
successful treatment.

 You reach for a mild treatment first but at times you need to reach for the
hard stuff like when varroa loads dictate you need to clear the varroa load
quickly. I have had little issues with mites as I test often and treat on
time. I am called in on varroa issues which should have been done or started
4-6 weeks earlier.
Not checking efficacy after a treatment has caused many a beekeeper big
losses.


>It seems to me that a thymol product is a good idea, and if it is already
>available, why would folks be trying to concoct stuff?

HBH is around a $100 a gallon and apiguard is around eighty dollars a tub
( 30 hives worth of treatment).
Of course I would never concoct a treatment but I can easily understand why
some do.

bob



Wondering?

             ***********************************************
The BEE-L mailing list is powered by L-Soft's renowned
LISTSERV(R) list management software.  For more information, go to:
http://www.lsoft.com/LISTSERV-powered.html

Access BEE-L directly at:
http://community.lsoft.com/scripts/wa-LSOFTDONATIONS.exe?A0=BEE-L

             ***********************************************
The BEE-L mailing list is powered by L-Soft's renowned
LISTSERV(R) list management software.  For more information, go to:
http://www.lsoft.com/LISTSERV-powered.html

Access BEE-L directly at:
http://community.lsoft.com/scripts/wa-LSOFTDONATIONS.exe?A0=BEE-L