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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

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Subject:
From:
Bob Harrison <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Wed, 19 Aug 2009 18:45:36 -0500
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>
> I still see a constant flow of bees with huge loads of pollen coming into
> my hives.

We are in between the summer clover flow and the fall flowers flow. A period
when pollen is plentiful and nectar is in short supply. many times the bees
will pull ovals of empty cells in the lower super at this time. When the
fall flows start the honey in those ovals is dark. A striking contrast to
the white clover honey which the bees pulled down into the brood nest..

> Where are you placing yours, BTW.  I have been putting them above the
> brood,

I have spacers on now so I place above the brood nest.  We equalize hives
each week with the bees hanging on the lids. The spacers make this possible.
We have so many bees in most hives (after supers pulled) the bees will not
fit in two boxes. When rain comes those on the front go under the entrance
and cluster in the pallet to get out of the rain.

*but* useless to the beekeeper in the Midwest as most are not *winter bees*.


> I am not sure how to best place them under the hives because my entrances
> are a tad small for pushing the patty in.

I like spacers. Especially for patties and treatments. . My entrances are 
3/8
( no mice worries) and I can't see pushing a pound patty in the entrance. I
have placed between the brood boxes but the spacers are easier and above the
brood nest works best for me. I can check if another patty is needed at a
glance.

*if* you do not use a spacer with migratory tops you almost have to place
between the boxes.

 I have been using 15% pollen patties simply because
> that is what Global had on hand.

Chinese pollen?
>

>> pollen foraging (if not almost stop) when given patties.
>
> Not my experience at all.  How have you measured that?

I would never have guessed would happen but Dave H. said was what he was
seeing. I tried and once the hives pollen needs are being met with the patty
you see less and less bees coming in with pollen loads. I admit I was a bit
amazed also but does two important things in my opinion.

1. You can slow contaminated pollen coming in.
2. You can stop the hoarding pollen effect many Missouri beekeepers are
seeing right now. At times I have had pallets of perfectly good frames
plugged with pollen I have pulled from hives in fall and in spring. Bees
will freeze to death in winter clustered over frames of pollen. Many times
the bees place those frames in the center of the brood nest. Dumb and can be
lethal!  Quite a bit of work pulling those frames in October but we can't
leave in the hive. Also can shut down a queen and prevent spring buildup.
The pollen frames dust in storage and can take a couple years to use up in
nucs. To say nothing to the dangers of using contaminated pollen in a nuc.

>
  Do you see
> any supplement in the frames?

sure! And will get hard as a rock over time.

Once the brood rearing is over I stop the patty feeding. I do not like to
see the patty stored.  You could end up with a similar to too much fresh
pollen stored if the bees go to storing the patty. A small amount is not a
big deal in my opinion.

>They wear themselves out flying.

Worn out wings! My California beekeeper friends like to change the subject
when they want to talk about "field run bees" and I counter with "At least
their wings are not worn out from flying for months before almonds!"

>
> We use that effect when open feeding with barrels to make sure that all
> hives get fed.

Still the best way at seasons end.

My normal method:

I weigh and mark the number of gallons to feed to each hive. Such as 1-5.
Then unless a feeder is full when checked the crew simple adds the amount I
have marked on the hive.
Feed all the ones first. then the twos and so on.
Last trip around I check to see how close I was and those not up to weight
get another gallon for winter.
>
> We give a big first round of syrup early on, then wait several weeks and
> take out some more.

What we do also.

, and
> for the heavy hives to settle down.

In your area taking supers in far areas( bees and all) and letting blow out
on the way back is common. Gets rid of the old field bees in fall.

Of course too inhuman for U.S. migratory beeks.

 By the time wrapping time comes at the end of October,
> all hives are quite uniform in weight.

uniform is the key. Hardly ever worked for in hobby beekeepers hives but
what we are always striving for in commercial hives!

bob

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