BEE-L Archives

Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

BEE-L@COMMUNITY.LSOFT.COM

Options: Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
Don Bowen <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Discussion of Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sun, 8 Sep 1996 16:36:49 -0700
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (26 lines)
>Anybody out there using cleats for hand-holds?  That is,  a 2" (or so) wide
>strip of wood nailed across the back and front of each box.  It makes
>lifting much easier, and if you attach these cleats along the *top edges*
>it reinforces the weak point of the hive body -- along the rabbets.  Some
>prefer to nail a cleat at the upper AND lower edge, front and back.  This
>allows you to stand the box on end (as when 'tipping'), also it gives you a
>nice durable place to jam your hive tool (between adjoining cleats) to pry
>the supers apart.  The cleats would certainly be easier than messing with a
>saw to get finger-holds cut. Just a suggestion      Regds,  JG
 
A beekeeper I work with localy uses cleats on everything.  Even bodies with
all varients of finger holds.  He uses 2 for the reasons stated above.  As
he picks a lot of used equipment he puts on the cleats so it is not unusual
to see cleats over cut slots.  I use cleats on all mine after his example.
 
 
    Don Bowen                      [log in to unmask]
    Valley Center, CA              Senior Software Engineer
    Bee Point acres                Smith Automation Systems, inc
    USDA Zone 9, Sunset Zone 21    [log in to unmask]
    33 16' 04 N  116 59' 19 W
 
    organic gardener, woodworker, beekeeper, reader
    1936 Farmall 12         1966 Corvair Corsa 140 Convertible
    1 wife, 3 kids, 2 dogs, 3 cats, 2 acres, no TV

ATOM RSS1 RSS2