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Subject:
From:
Allen Dick <[log in to unmask]>
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Date:
Sat, 17 Aug 1996 07:51:23 -0600
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Sorry about the last post (Re: Foul Brood) -- it got away before it
was finished, hence the non-sentance at the end, and a perhaps
unfinished train of thought.  Oh well...
 
Anyhow here is something I just posted on sci.ag.beesomething
 
Since it is of perennial interest and I put some work into it, I
offer it here.  Comments and additions are, of course welcome.
 
>I have a very agressive hive and last time I checked it I was stung
many
>times and passed out from 50+ stings.  I have to re queen in October
and am
>not looking forward to opening the hive.. of course i will put
heavier
>clothes on this time but if anyone has any ideas .. pls.
>
If you have other hives in the group, just wait until a flow is on --
bees are flying freely and fast in and out, and move the whole hive 20
feet away (and turn it around 180 degrees too, if you like).
 
Most of the mean bees will drift into the other hives and you will
easily find the queen and be able to replace her.  The bees will add
to the other hives and continue to make honey, so nothing will be
lost, and the hive will soon have more bees from the emerging brood.
 
Otherwise (no flow, no other hives) just add a tablespoon of 34-0-0
fertilizer on top of the fire smouldering in your smoker and go to
work.  The resulting laughing gas will make them better humoured --
seriously.
 
BTW, many (most) beekeepers don't know how to use a smoker properly.
Here's a recap:
 
*  Use a fuel that smoulders and gives lots of cool dense smoke.
Burlap is easily available.  A roll of cardboard will do fine too.
 
*  Hold your bare hand in front of the smoker and puff.  If it burns
you,  it will not calm your bees.  Add damp burlap if the fire is too
hot.
 
*  Once the smoker is going properly, squeeze it gently while moving
the spout evenly and slowly across the entire entrance slit.
 
*  Wait for the bees to start fanning (30 seconds).
 
*  Repeat several times at 30 second intervals if the bees are likely
to be mean.
 
*  The bees will attempt to change the airflow to avoid the smoke, so
be sure to smoke any other holes or entrances the same way.
 
*  Watch how the smoke is being exhausted form the hive.  Look for the
air intake point -- it is the most effective place to use a puff of
dense smoke.
 
*  Quit if the bees start to run wildly around -- You've overdone it.
 
The idea is to get the bees circulating air, then use their currents
to carry smoke to the whole hive.
 
Do not oversmoke.  A little goes a long ways.  The idea is to confuse
the bees a bit and mask pheremones, not to burn their wings off, or
set them to running.
 
Once the hive is open, and if you are anticipating resistance, smoke
the top and bottom on each box as it is exposed, making sure that the
smoke actually goes into the box.  If the wind is wrong, the smoke
will merely be blown over the top.  MAke the wind work for you.
 
Re-smoke each exposed box every few minutes if the bees appear to be
reorganising.  Stand boxes you are not working on on their *ends*, it
disorganises the bees, and makes smoking easier.
 
*Do not use any more smoke than necessary*.  The instructions above
are for thorough smoking in difficult circumstances.  Often little or
no smoke is required -- especially if hives are small and the bees are
well fed.
Regards
 
Allen
 
W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper                                         VE6CFK
RR#1, Swalwell, Alberta  Canada T0M 1Y0
Internet:[log in to unmask] & [log in to unmask]
Honey. Bees, & Art <http://www.internode.net/~allend/>

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