Hive stands may differ considerably from environmental differences.My apiary
is
on a rise in a hill with granite ledge beneath. I first cast two concrete
footing on the slope to give a level platform for concrete blocks which raise
the least end to about 14 inches above soil. Two or more concrete block piers
are provided for each 7 foot
platform across which I originally placed surplus doors since replaced with
5/4rough cut pine planks. Using the planks instead of the doors I am able to
buil in an automatic water supplu 4 inches wide by the length between the
piers. I place one
hive above each pier with room for placing work in process between them and
off the ground. The platforms are strong enough to allow me to stand on them
between the hives and lfit off one super at a time. The number of concrete
blocks differ in that
the ground is no where near level.I use some standard blocks and some 2 inch
thick ones. I built in a pitch to the front side over abut 1/2 in per foot to
asssure that the bottom board drains.
 
In the winter a foam plastic polyester insulation board is assembled around
each hive up to the top of the brood chambers .This may not be necessary but
those so protected have done better than unprotected ones. My sheets of foam
are dovetailed and spiked together. The spike just pushes in and can be
pulled out in the spring.
 
I will take some photos and mail them to anyone who requests same. All of
this is nothing unusual. , just teh way I learned to do it from and Essex
Couonty (mass)
member.
 
You also asked about "what not to do" Don't rush your carpentry . May first
wooden stand  slid downhill and collapsed.I had to pick up X thousand
disturbed bees and reset them on a better stand.Oddly enough they were more
concerned about their queen and their homes than me . I didn't get stung even
once although I was poorly attired at the moment. I even picked up some
clusters of bees bare handed and  put them on a super rop frame.They settled
in happily.