At the risk of jinxing what appears to be a "perfect game", here's a
report on my FGMO method which appears quite effective (knock on wood).
As a committed organic gardner and a very chemical-sensitive biologist
(too many toxic spills), I've gone from a 1-hive hobby 2 years ago to
very small commercial:  25 hives and counting this year, selling honey
etc.  No winter losses of 11 hives (thanks in part to mild Piedmont
South Carolina winter), no summer losses despite major major drought,
all this year's increase made on splits and swarms and 9 purchased
queens, the rest (16 queens this year) raised here.  Mite counts on
worker brood now are 0 to 10%.  A given hive may have 0 to 2
wing-deformed bees on inspection.  Won't say I've won but I'm still in
the fight with NO Apistan.
My FGMO application is adapted from the trackboard mixture for essential
oils given by the Univ. W Va folks.  I melt together equal parts by
volume of beeswax and mineral oil and, with regular stirring to keep it
mixed, paint it on the walls (thick) and floor (thin) of a hive body.
When I'm going for an inspection or at least every 6-8 weeks I pull the
supers, move the bottom and main body to one side of the stand, put the
empty 'glopped' bottom and body on the stand, and work my frames into it
as I inspect.  If there's a large patch of drone brood or some mite
problems evident I may paint (melted) or smear (cooled) more glop on the
frame bars or supers.  The glop texture should be firm enough not to bog
down a bee at hive temperature but soft enough to wear onto bee feet and
trap a fallen mite.  It cools very fast.  I once to my horror watched a
marked queen fall off the wall upside down onto a floor I had just
painted with melted glop. It cooled immediately on her wings to its
vaseline-y texture, was cleaned off  and she survived for a year until I
requeened.  Too thick a floor layer can entrap debris that moths might
use - they don't seem to like it by itself.
In addition to FGMO I've picked drone brood out of hives (unless the
genetics was desirable),  separated the upper brood super with spring
drones from main brood nest by placing a 'glopped' super between, and
tried to time requeenings or permit supercessions during the late summer
danger zone to break the brood cycle, and added trace minerals and
ascorbic acid to sugar syrup when I feed.  I intend to try some smoke
methods, mesh floors, and in emergencies formic acid as well.
Though a scientist by training, my work on pollinating bats in the
tropics taught me to trust good old natural history and seat of the
pants.  It's often the only way to figure out what to test, and teaches
us that the variables are so great that experimental science can only be
approximated when dealing with complex natural systems.  I'm not sure
why my bees are still alive... but I plan to try everything I can for a
few decades and then if someone will loan me a grad student with a grant
maybe we can try to figure out why it worked...
Apologies for the long-winded post... but I've held my breath so long...

Carolyn in Plum Branch, (west central) SC, USA