BEE-L Archives

Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

BEE-L@COMMUNITY.LSOFT.COM

Options: Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
Aaron Morris <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:30:50 EDT
Content-Type:
TEXT/PLAIN
Parts/Attachments:
TEXT/PLAIN (59 lines)
Karen Ferner states, "we need information on wintering bees in
Rochester, NY...."
 
The best advice I can offer regarding wintering bees in upstate New York
(I'm located in the Saratoga vicinity) is first, make sure your bees are
happy and healthy in the fall by following all the recommended fall
medications:
   1) Apistan for the period recommended on the label (two full brood
      cycles (6-8 weeks)) as soon as you pull your honey supers.
      Honey supers usually come off my hives on Oct 1.  If the asters
      are still producing I may stretch it to Oct 15, but absolutely
      NO LATER!  Even if you end up with runny honey (which still
      makes great mead).  If strips go in on 10/1, Thanksgiving
      weekend is a good time to get them out.
   2) 2 gallons of 2:1 (sugar:water) syrup medicated with Fumidil-B per
      hive.
   3) Extender Patties (TM medicated grease patties, one per hive).
 
In addition to the fall medications you'll want to pay attention to
the mechanics of your hive.  MOUSE GUARDS!  Some beekeepers pooh pooh
them, but in these parts mouse guards are absolutely necessary.  Mice
will appreciate it if you forget them, I assure you.  And make sure
you get them on BEFORE the mice move in.  Sept 15 is a good rule of
thumb date.
 
Provide an upper entrance - upper entrances are especially important in
the Great Lakes snow belt region where snow can easily accumulate to a
depth that will cover the bottom entrance.  All of my inner covers are
notched (routed) to provide an upper entrance and ventillation.  Some
beekeepers drill auger holes in their brood chambers, but I prefer
the notched inner cover.  On hives with migratory covers I use Snelgrove
boards to provide the upper entrance.
 
The MOST IMPORTANT tip for winter survival in the catagory of paying
attention to the mechanics of your hive is to take steps to guard
against moisture build up in the hive.  I have never wrapped my hives
although I do use duct tape to close up any huge holes or cracks between
brood chambers.  And I mean HUGE cracks - your bees will show you where
they are.  If the spaces are small enough that the bees can't fit
through I don't bother to tape them.  Small cracks will improve the
ventillation in your hive and combat moisture build up.  THE BEST TIP i
ever received regarding combatting moisture in the hive is to pack an
empty super on top of your brood chambers and inner cover with straw.
The straw in this empty super will absord the water vapor given off by
the bees and help immensely with keeping them dry during the winter.
Without this packing the water vapor will freeze on the inner cover and
rain down on your bees on the first warm day.  Wet bees are dead bees.
 
Two other things I have overlooked are a healthy, vigorous, young queen
and plenty of winter stores.  At least 100lbs of surplus honey or
syrup.
 
Past few El Nino winters have been very mild and easy on the bees.
Predictions for this winter are flip side El Nina with lots of snow and
cold, so winter preparations may need special attention.  However we
won't really know until March '99.
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!

ATOM RSS1 RSS2