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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

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Subject:
From:
Jerry J Bromenshenk <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Fri, 11 May 2001 08:43:24 -0600
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Hi:

Inner covers are one of those things like queen excluders - everyone has an
opinion, very little fact.

Fact:  Some of us never use them, except maybe as an upper entrance in
winter - watch the 1,000 - 14,000 colony commercial operations.  They may
use them for over-wintering, but I can't remember seeing any on hives
during honey production season in our part of the world (Pacific NW).
Maybe the commercial folks in your areas do things differently.

Fact:  Many hobbiests use them - probably - and this is opinion, because it
makes it easier to feed bees, may make it easier to open and inspect the
colony, can be used with a bee escape to clear honey supers, and because
bee supply houses sell them.

Fact:  You see them in humid areas - and this may make some sense - the
oft-stated opinion is that they help ventilate the have and keep the
condensation away from the frames.

Fact:  In Guatemala, they use black plastic sheeting - like comes in heavy
trash bags or on rolls.  Just tear off and lay over the top bars,
overlapping the hive body - you can see the plastic sticking out from under
the cover.

Fact:  Trees don't have inner covers.

So, inner covers were invented by someone and bee supply houses started
building and selling them - and they are handy for feeding with an inverted
pail or bottle, do provide an upper entrance (an auger hole will do the
same), and can be used to get bees out of the honey supers (if you can
afford the time to wait) - personally, I blow them out.

If anyone can point to hard studies on the effects of inner covers on hive
humidity or temperature, please provide the citation(s).

This is somewhat similar to Covers.  Hobbiests often buy and use
telescoping covers and cover these with metal flashing.  Now, in this case,
you NEED an inner cover.  Trying to pry off a telescoping cover that has
been glued down by the bees or bridged with bar comb is no fun.

Commercial operations use covers that range from a flat board, to a simple
cover with cross pieces on the ends, to a few creative (top and bottom
board combos).  But, never telescoping - at least, I've not seen any in MT,
WA, ID, TX, NM.  Why - mainly cost.

That's why the commercial hives don't look like the hobbiest hives.
Pallets often replace hive stands (and in many cases, even bottom boards),
inner covers, slotted bottoms, etc. are left off, and the covers are as
simple as you can make them.  A handy rock or a nail keeps the flat cover
on the hive.

Queen excluders may or may not be used.  If used, its to keep the queen out
of the honey supers - a time saver.

What do you have to have for a beehive?  Some type of container with sides,
top, and bottom.  Some place for the bees to come and go.  Some way to get
the honey out.  Trees, logs, top bar hives, skeps, modern hives - just
containers.

Bee space is important.  Material is important.  Treated lumber may be
toxic.  Plastics don't breathe, which may increase moisture problems.
Masonite, particle board, and other wood composites often delaminate in wet
conditions - especially humid climates.  Its already humid inside the hive.

Inner covers, queen excluders, slotted bottom boards have specific uses,
hive stands, which vary depending on the type of beekeeping, geographical
area, etc.  But you don't have to have any of these extras.

Jerry
Jerry J. Bromenshenk, Ph.D.
Director, DOE/EPSCoR & Montana Organization for Research in Energy
The University of Montana-Missoula
Missoula, MT  59812-1002
E-Mail: [log in to unmask]
Tel:  406-243-5648
Fax:  406-243-4184
http://www.umt.edu/biology/more
http://www.umt.edu/biology/bees

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