First, wet insulation is no insulation. Using an absorbent to control
a condensation issue is a bit backward...to me. I would rather see the
moisture escape the hive, than be absorbed on top of the hive. Saying
that it's better to have saturated straw above the cluster is a bit
much. 2" of foam insulates well and doesn't absorb moisture.

In my area, we have annual winter lows in the teens below zero F. Most
winters, we'll get into the 20s below a couple times. We haven't seen
30s below in years, but used to. The biggest issues in wintering bees in
the north are excessive moisture within the hive...from condensation,
and long periods without cleansing flights...4 months or more some years
here in northern Vermont. Good bees can survive quite well with no
cleansing flights from December to April, but excessive moisture will
kill them dead.

A properly prepared hive of bees has some type of insulation above the
cluster, and here in Vermont...a wrap of black to collect solar heat on
the cold winter days. Insulation on the inner cover prevents water vapor
from condensing within the hive...allowing it to escape as vapor through
the upper entrance. No dripping on the bees. A wide open bottom
entrance, protected against mice, insures adequate ventilation. Reduced
bottom entrance increases in hive moisture...if you want vapor to escape
the top of the hive, it must be replaces with air from somewhere
else.This is a properly prepared hive, ready to wrap with tarpaper.

[IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff61/frenchhill/DSC_0625.jpg[/IMG]

And then a tarpaper wrap is stapled around the hive as shown, tying down
the outer cover.

[IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff61/frenchhill/DSC_0630.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff61/frenchhill/DSC_0640-1.jpg[/IMG]
> I'd be curious to hear discussion on the fine points of absorbent vs
> nonabsorbent insulation above the cluster.
>
>

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