BEE-L Archives

Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

BEE-L@COMMUNITY.LSOFT.COM

Options: Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
Cusick Farms <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Thu, 30 Oct 2014 08:59:42 -0400
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (23 lines)
I helped install radiant heating in my dad's barn/shop.  Same concept, he
heats the water with an outdoor wood-fired boiler.  We laid 2 inch pink
foam board (R-10) on the leveled ground and secured the pex loops to the
foamboard with plastic staples.  You have to be careful when pouring the
concrete that you don't move the shoot too fast and pop all the staples
out.  He only heats the shop to 40 or 50 degrees because it has 20 foot
ceilings, but the walls are extruded foam insulation with a bed of
cellulose in the ceiling.  In a smaller room you can really crank up the
heat just from the floor.  Poured into cement seems to be the most
efficient transfer, followed by tile.  Wood floors not so good, especially
if they are floating laminate because the padding acts as a barrier.  I
would think rather than running tubes through the wall if you wanted
additional heat it would be easier and cheaper to use baseboard radiant
heaters.  You would still want it in the floor if you have cement though.

Jeremy
West Michigan

             ***********************************************
The BEE-L mailing list is powered by L-Soft's renowned
LISTSERV(R) list management software.  For more information, go to:
http://www.lsoft.com/LISTSERV-powered.html

ATOM RSS1 RSS2