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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

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Subject:
From:
James Kilty <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sat, 10 Feb 2001 20:55:05 +0000
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In message <[log in to unmask]>, Robert Mann
<[log in to unmask]> writes
>        What think ye of the Pauper's Split?
A variation I have tried is designed to give the cell builder a full
force of flying bees as well as the young bees needed to feed the new
queen cells. Using all the stages Robert gave, turn the lower box to
face the rear and keep the top box entrance facing to the front. Once
the cells have their feed reverse so the flying bees go back to mum
leaving the top box to carry on the good work of taking cells to
completion. A check on cells after 3 or even 4 days will let you cull
any sealed cells started on older larvae. Cells can be cut out and given
to nucs or, if more than one frame has been selected to grow cells,
whole frames moved for simplicity to nucs for mating. (If there are
enough bees they can also be split further). Or the top box can be left
to select its own new queen who mates from the rear of the top - *less*
confusion about entrances.

The system has also been recommended for swarm control, once they have
started cells, especially if they are within 2 days of sealing them or
perhaps have even sealed them, as the old queen loses her flying bees
for as long as you think will lose them the swarming instinct. The only
problem we have with our National hives here is that half the vertical
surfaces are flat, the other half have two planes to accommodate the
long lugs. So the bees crawl up the hive and have to negotiate like
experienced mountaineers doing overhangs. It slows them down a bit,
especially if there are 2 or 3 supers on. I have tried that with some
success and aim to use it when they are too close to swarming to let
them stay in with the old queen even if she is left with only one frame
of brood and one of stores and the rest made up with foundation. They
sometimes go after 3 frames are laid up.

The mesh division board helps to ensure the top box is warm enough in
case a beginner leaves insufficient bees initially to keep it warm,
though that will cut down the queen rearing potential, perhaps even
drastically. So the split should have sufficient bees young or old,
though many books recommend a foraging force for cell builders to bring
in fresh pollen as well as good pollen stocks next to the frames with
worker and queen larvae.
--
James Kilty

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