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Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

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Subject:
From:
Bob Harrison <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Fri, 26 Aug 2005 15:15:01 -0500
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>I've heard that 9 frames are better in a 10-frame BROOD box - because they
are allegedly easier to remove - but I don't buy it.

They are without a doubt easier to remove.

> In my experience, the bees will always fill with propolis the space
between the frame surfaces that would normally touch.  Makes it tough to
separate the frames for removal.

How often do you pull & clean your frames? Bees stick together frames tough
when they touch! Not when a gap exists. Propolis is excellent glue but not
to bridge a gap.

Speed and the non distruction of top bars pulling away from the frame is the
number one reason for nine frames. Even with the two end nails top bars will
pull away when locked down in a 10 frame situation (sometimes in a 9 frame)

The second (many will shudder at the practice) is so we can pull a frame
right out of the center of the cluster instead of the wasted effort of
pulling the outside frame and sliding every frame over and then back. Time
is money in commercial beekeeping.

The third reason is the dumb practice of jamming the frame back in the hive
with 10 frames many beekeepers do! I have seen beekeepers almost stand on
the frame to get it back in at meeting etc..
In my opinion more queens die from manipulation in a 10 frame than a 9
frame.

The truth is many commercial beekeepers (including myself ) run most hives
with 8 frames and a division feeder.

>10 frames gives more cells to lay eggs in although, in my experience,
queens typically don't lay in the outer frames unless the solid bottom
boards are replaced with screens.

We figure 16-18 frames are  enough for the most prolific queen to lay in two
deeps.

Bob

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