Frank,
 
 
Thanks for posting this message.  I too am in the process of removing bees
from trees and buildings ( working on 5 projects).  I previously used 6 5/8
queen right supers to remove the bees then combine them with a weaker hive.
 
 
Now I use 5 frame cardboard nucs from Mann Lake or Mel Disselkoen Apiaries
with one frame of brood and a queen.  These nucs have one advantage, they
weigh less than a wooden 10 frame brood chambe.  Ever try bringing a full
brood chamber down a ladder that has been left for 6 weeks on a bee removal
job located 15 feet up the side of a building?  HEAVY on the back!!
 
 These bee removal nucs build up fast with two laying queens.  At times I
have to swap them out with another queen right nuc to finish the job.
 
Couple of questions come to mind:
 
1. What about trees or dwelling openings that are quite large (over 6"
diameter)?
 
It would appear that putting some wire mesh over the large opening, tacking
down the edges first, then cutting the exact diameter hole in the wire mesh
to fit  the plastic tubing would be the best thing to do.
 
2.  Is the clear plastic tubing flexible or rigid?
 
3. I have not tried the foam sealer?  Is it toxic to bees?
 
4. Is is necessary to put the end of the tubing inside the entrance of the
bait hive?
 
I am interested if there are other methods of designing bee removal cones
besides using wire mesh.
 
Paul Cronshaw DC
Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper
 
 
Date:    Sat, 21 Jun 1997 11:38:12 -0400
From:    Frank & Phronsie Humphrey <[log in to unmask]>
Subject: Bee removal
 
I am at present removing several colonies from buildings by trapping with
screen cone method.  Every time I do this, it is always a hassle to get the
cone just right and then sealing around it.  Today I tried something new.
I purchased several sizes of clear plastic tubing.  I reduced the opening
to one small entrance of about 1 1/2 " X 3/4".  I then placed a 3" section
of 3/4" tubing and sealed it in place with "Great Stuff" foam sealer.  I
then sealed up all remaining openings that the bees found.  I then put a
short section of 5/8" tubing in the 3/4" and 3/8" into the 5/8".  The 3/8"
tubing is about 8" long and the other end was placed just inside the
entrance of a NUC in front of the original entrance.  For about 30 minutes
the bees were frantic to get back in but couldn't find an entrance to their
old nest.  Finally a few found the NUC and started scenting.  After 45
minutes,  most bees were entering the new hive with returning field bees
searching for a short time and then they too entered.
 
It took about 30 minutes for the bees to start exiting via the tubing.
However once started they came out in a steady stream.  If this continues
to work as well as it started, I will never again use screening.
 
 Frank Humphrey
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