BEE-L Archives

Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology

BEE-L@COMMUNITY.LSOFT.COM

Options: Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
"David D. Scribner" <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
David D. Scribner
Date:
Sat, 8 May 1999 23:31:54 -0500
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (65 lines)
>1. My hive body is three or four weeks old. I started with all new
>equipment and purchased bees. after a week or two I noticed ants on the
>bottom board near the board feeder. Is this something to be concerned
>about? Since the hive sits on 6x6's its impractical to "moat" it.
>
>Thanks in advance for any advise.
>Sue
>Philadelphia, PA


Since Gordon Scott answered your second question, I thought I would forward
you a few personal opinions I (and some others) have about boardman entrance
feeders.  I had emailed this clip as part of a message to another subscriber
with the same problem (ants feeding from the feeder) just a week or so ago
so still had it in my Sent Items folder...

>>>>>>>
I recommend that you consider an alternative to the boardman entrance feeder
for a couple reasons...

The boardman entrance feeder that ships with many "starter" hives really
isn't the best feeder choice for a new hive.  One, it doesn't hold very much
sugar water (1 qt.) and needs constant refilling.  Two, most new hives are
started in early spring when the nights are still cool.  The bees will stop
feeding from the entrance feeder when it gets too cold as they have to
travel too far from the cluster.  Three, if there are other hives close by
that are stong, it has happened that the strong colony will force it's way
into the entrance, turn the corner and take as much of the syrup as they
want.  This leaves the new colony without the syrup you provided for THEM to
use, and this type of "robbing" can demoralize the new colony.  And finally,
the entrance feeder is accessed very easily by ants or other "critters" that
want the sweet stuff, too.

My recommendation, if you have a second full-depth hive body on hand (or a
couple shallows or mediums) is to take out the entrance feeder and reduce
the entrance cleat to the smallest opening.  Remove the outer telescoping
cover, but leave the inner cover with the oval hole in place.  Put the empty
hive body (no frames) on top of it and place a feeder pail or jar over the
hole and replace the telescoping cover.

Feeder pails are plastic buckets that have a screened hole in the lid.
Since it may take too long for one to arrive if you ordered it now, you can
use a feeder jar instead.  Any large 1/2 gallon or 1 gallon jar can be used,
though the ones used in the food service for condiments (ketchup, salad
dressing, etc.) are great.  With a small nail, punch very small holes in the
lid.  Fill the pail or jar with the sugar water and put the lid on.  At the
hive, turn it upside down over the inner cover hole.  A little will drain
out at first, but the vacuum pressure created inside will keep it from
draining (as long as the holes are small enough).  If the jar lid doesn't
cover the hole in the inner cover completely, a little duct tape over the
exposed part of the hole will solve that problem.

Feeding the bees "inside" the hive allows them to continue feeding on cold
nights as the feed is right above the cluster.  Since the inner cover hole
is covered, bees won't move into the empty super.  And, as the only access
to the feed is from inside the hive you will eliminate any "robbing" by
other colonies or "critters".
>>>>>>>

As I mentioned, I think if you changed your feeder to a different style,
that may very well solve your ant problem.  Hope this helps.

--David Scribner <[log in to unmask]> - Ballwin, MO, USA
  Niche on the Net! - <www.bigfoot.com/~dscribner>

ATOM RSS1 RSS2