Since we've had the first report of some (of many) bad experiences with
   trying to remove bees from supers, I'll offer my opinion of some options
   I've found effective (in order of preference):
 
   Any method of clearing supers (and extracting) works better in warm
   sunny weather, when the bees are still foraging (preferably actively).
   If you can extract the honey while it's still warm from the hive, things
   will go easier. You may have to remove some honey at the end of the flow
   when weather is cool and robbing is likely, but try to minimize it.
 
   1. Abandonment method (the most elegant, IF conditions are right).
        Simply remove the super of honey, stand it on end and close the
        hive. Come back in 3 to 5+ hours, when the bees have abandoned the
        supers and returned to the hive. Take the supers for extracting.
     Conditions that have to be right:
           there MUST BE A HONEYFLOW continuing (or robbing may start)
           there must be NO BROOD in the supers (the bees won't leave it)
   The supers should be placed out of the flight path (beside or on top of
   the hive is OK). If done in mid morning, supers may be virtually clear
   by mid afternoon. Supers could be left overnight, but it isn't cold that
   makes them leave, and if supers are removed late in the day, the bees
   may cluster (then be harder to remove next morning) rather than return
   to the hive. A few supers may have a couple of hundred bees remaining.
   These can be blown or shaken out. If a super is placed in a flight path,
   it may fill with bees. If other supers have been vacated and you can
   come back later, move it away and the bees may leave it in another
   couple of hours. Or use method 2.
   Try this carefully if you haven't done it before. If it isn't working,
   be extra careful if you continue. The pandemonium of robbing is worth
   avoiding.
 
   2. Blower method.
        You don't necessarily need the special (gas powered, noisy, stinky)
   blower equipment. If you have an electric outlet near your hives, try a
   vacuum cleaner with the hose attached to the outlet, so it blows. Some
   machines blow better than others. (Don't blame me if you get propolis on
   someone else's vacuum). Use a crevice tool to increase air velocity. Put
   a screen over the inlet so you don't suck bees and stuff into the
   vacuum.
        Work from behind the hive. Tip the super onto its front, so the
   bottom bars face you. (Smoke the bees off the top of the super below).
   Starting at a side frame, blow the bees out past the top bars, into the
   air in front of their hive. They will return to the hive entrance. Be
   thorough but don't dawdle (bees will be crawling back in). If the comb
   is capped, the bees leave easier. Don't forget the space between the end
   bars and the super. Work through the frames to the other side (if the
   super is really full of bees and comb, it may work better if you remove
   one frame first, then "leaf" the bottom bars along to make more room at
   the space where you're blowing. However, it's nice if you can avoid
   breaking open any honey-filled bridge comb). Remove the super from the
   hive and blow off the remaining bees. Cover top and bottom to avoid
   robbers.
 
   3. Bee repellant (butyric anhydride)
    Works best in hot weather when top supers are mostly capped and bees
   aren't crowded in them. Boards specially made to apply the repellant are
   necessary. The best I've seen have black painted, aluminum covers to
   absorb sunshine and stay warm. They are stacked absorbent-side facing,
   and kept warm to stay repellant when moved between yards (1/2 hr). This
   method uses 4 to 6 boards to progressively remove bees from 24 to 30
   hives (move boards to the next hive, as supers are removed). It's not
   elegant, you'd probably want a blower as backup. You'll need good bee
   protection and I find the repellant stinks (even the stuff with cherry
   overtones).
        Remove the lid from the hive and give it 3 to 5 good puffs of smoke
   to start the bees moving down. Put the boards on cross-ways or a bit
   ajar for a few minutes, then move them directly over the  super. In a
   few minutes (check the bottom of the super) the bees will have moved
   down. Remove that super, and move the board down. If it isn't working
   fast enough, maybe add a bit more repellant. Don't repel the bees so
   strongly that they begin running out the entrance.
 
   When you're finished, leave your coveralls outside, have a good shower
   and consider the merits of method 1. Air the supers before extracting.
 
   (IF you want to requeen or split this hive soon: leave the repellant
   board on until the bees have left the upper brood box. Insert a queen
   excluder between the boxes and close up the hive. Within a few hours,
   the bees are re-established throughout the hive, but the queen is now in
   the bottom box. You can split/requeen the top box without finding her,
   or find her in the bottom box and replace her. If you want to split and
   the upper box is heavy with honey, it may be better to exchange some
   brood frames with the bottom box.)
 
   4. Shaking and brushing.
   It's straightforward and OK for a couple of hives, but even for 1 hive,
   a vacuum-cleaner blower is more efficient, if you have power available.
 
   5. Bee escape boards.
   Sometimes work OK, but rarely, in my experience. The supers have to be
   moved twice (first to put on the board) and if the bees don't leave, you
   have to use another method anyway.
 
   Happy harvest.
 
   Kerry Clark, Apiculture Specialist
   B.C. Ministry of Agriculture
   1201 103 Ave
   Dawson Creek B.C.
        V1G 4J2  CANADA          Tel (604) 784-2225     fax (604) 784-2299
   INTERNET [log in to unmask]