>>On the other hand, in some years I have seen Italian types keep 
breeding well into the fall such that....

One of my criteria for selecting queens to produce virgins from is 
shutting down brood rearing by November in my area.  I had one queen 
that did not quit at all this past [somewhat mild] winter.  I will 
not propagate her genetics.

>>...they burn up much of the honey in the top (3rd) deep and replace 
it with brood before the cold weather sets in.

There is no reason [in my area] to overwinter in 3 deeps.  I use 2 
and I overwinter nucs w/o a problem.  I do believe that having a deep 
with empty comb under an overwintering colony can be beneficial for 
better air/water management by the bees in the hive. But it is not a 
necessity in my area.

I'd add the 3rd deep to facilitate the spring expansion.

>>Of course, too, the food can be there, and if the placement isn't 
just right, they can still starve.

This is certainly true in the colder parts.

>>I am having to remove some full combs of honey, much of it 
granulated solid, to free up space for egg laying. But at least they 
didn't starve.

I've had mixed results with providing water in my hives.  Roughly 
half took up the water VERY eagerly during the early, cold spring.  
They may have used it to liquify any crystalized honey.

>>Meanwhile, the extra large brood nest delays the onset of swarm 
preps. It certainly doesn't prevent swarming on its own, but the 
swarming doesn't occur so soon, and that gives you more time to 
manage things, IME.

They say the lack of a honey dome over the dome prevents major build-
up of nectar in the brood nest which is a trigger for swarm prep.  
This is what I am verifying for myself this year.  Chekerboarding 
breaks up the honey dome as does reversing.  Reversing, however, 
slows down expansion.   

>>Dr. Morse wasn't so enthusiastic,; he considered 
triples "exorbitant" and not the best use of available equipment. 

I agree with Dr. Morse on this. :)

Waldemar

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