Randy, 

>Could you please confirm the variables? As I read your description, there
were two variables, compared to your "normal" controls--top insulation, or
top insulation plus tarpaper.  Correct?....Correct

>And the difference in the ventilation variables was a 1/2" x 1/2" opening
at the top of the top-insulated hives, vs. a full-width 1/4" shimmed
opening above an inner cover hole in the uninsulated control hives.
Correct?....Correct

>Did you happen to notice whether that mold was mainly in the upper boxes,
or the lower boxes? 
The mold that was a problem was mostly in the honey filled upper boxes although some mold usually appears in the (by spring) empty bottom boxes but the effected otter frames are empty and I rotate then out.

>Another question--during your cold winter, does the condensation within the
uninsulated hives typically freeze?...Don't know since I don't open them at that time but I suspect that not, or at least not in the vicinity of the cluster. I see no condensation, wet or frozen, on the bottom of the inner on the rare occasions that I lift one to have a quick look.

Reading Jerry's methods I agree with almost all believing that we are in a similar climate. We probably get a good deal less wind at least in my winter location. I do not doubt that a black wrap has some benefit but in my experience with very low overall loss and no observable difference between wrap and unwrap I don't think it is worth the effort. I like inner covers and telescoping lids for several reasons. I make my own inners from 3/8" plywood with a 1" rim and a 2 1/2 dia. hole in the center. The thick plywood does not sag and supports the gallon bucket feeders I use inverted over the hole. The extra thick rim provides room for my formic mite-wipes and a sub patty. The telescoping lid I believe provides superior winter water/wind protection as well as summer heat protection. I sometimes get melted honey frames under migratory lids in 105 degree temps, not so with telescoping/inner. 

As I have often stated I firmly believe that the key is ample stores and a large population going into winter. Empirical evidence confirms it to me.  

An interesting aside. Randy said that he did not know of bees surviving in exposed locations in cold climates.  We supply honey to a local college and the grounds crew called me to advise them on dealing with a swarm that had developed a really nice completely exposed colony under an overhang 3 stories up in a biological science building. It was 4 or 5 combs and would probably fill a single deep. I told them to take it as a learning tool and just screw a box that I would supply around it and let the students observe. They never got around to it and the colony survived the winter, dyeing out the following year probably from mites. Years ago I heard, I believe from Marla, of an exposed colony in Minnesota also surviving a winter. So it is certainly not common but given sufficient stores, possible for a protected but exposed colony to heat itself. Don't try this at home!

Paul Hosticka
Dayton WA

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