In a message dated 12/3/98 10:47:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, [log in to unmask]
(Ted Fischer) writes:
 
> 2) How big is your "small" swarm hive?  How many hive bodies?  If only one,
I
> would recommend
>  combining it with a large hive (just set the hive body on top of the upper
> recipient hive body -
>  there will be no problem adjusting).  If two, but the cluster is in one,
> just combine that one
>  with a good hive.  If two, but the cluster is split, combine both hive
> bodies with two different
>  strong hives.  It's better to do this than have the small colony lost
> because of its inability to
>  conserve heat during winter.  I wouldn't even worry about the queen.  The
> bees will solve that on
>  their own.  And you don't  have to feed, since hopefully the combined
colony
> will now have
>  adequate stores.
 
   It sounds as if there is a question about the stores right now in the swarm
hive. While I support the idea of combining it with a stronger hive, a box
that is light on stores should never be stored on top of any hive during
winter. They will then have to use extra stores to heat the empty space above
the cluster. Further, the cluster could get into difficulty later in the
winter, if there is a cold spell and bees cannot move up into honey. Remember
that during cold weather, bees only move upward, never laterally.
 
    Newbies  - never leave empty supers on a hive throughout the winter, and
even partially empty are not so good an idea. Empties can be stored UNDER the
cluster without affecting the heat economy and this will give expansion space
early next spring. Make sure you have good mouse protection though.
 
   With such a combination, one could place the swarm colony temporarily on
the top, but should remove it, as soon as the bees combine. If possible, it
would be a better idea to put the light, weak colony on the bottom. A little
syrup fed to them at combination will keep them from fighting.
 
    There is no problem in briefly opening hives in cold weather, for
combining these colonies, removing strips, etc. I would not pull out any brood
frames and expose them to direct cold, but that may be a moot question, as
there are unlikely to be brood frames in December. Even here in South Carolina
(very warm, been in 70's and 80's every day) I was expecting to find brood,
but find practically none. In fact some colonies do have none, and I would
worry about them being queenright, except that the bees act quite satisfied.
By mid-January we usually see lots of new brood, but so far they are right on
schedule, despite record heat.
 
    Perhaps, if there  were more bloom, they would start brooding up in this
heat, but it has also been so dry, that there is little mustard blooming yet.
And mustard is the key flower through the winter here.
 
    If you open during cold weather, say 30-50 degrees, move quickly, but
gently. Don't break up the cluster of bees, and be careful not to knock adult
bees out of the hive, where they may not be able to crawl back in. If it is
below 30, I would not open them, except just for a few seconds to pull out
strips. Be careful to set the cover back on exactly as it was, so the bee glue
will match up, and not leave gaping holes, for them to get robbed out on the
next warm day.
 
[log in to unmask]     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
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