Paul Cronshaw, D.C. says a fellow beekeeper asks about storing supers in
sunny Santa Barbara.
 
I don't know whether you have received sufficient answers to your question.
I saw some good remarks about storing brood combs separate from white honey
combs.  That is an excellent idea.
 
Wax moths may not fly into the equipment, their eggs are probably already in
there.  At least up here in Washington that appears to be the case.  Leave
your honey supers in a closed garage for two weeks after removal from the
hives in early September and you'll see wax moth larvae.
 
I wouldn't advise torching equipment, it is too much work for the possible
benefit.  Wax moth eggs are in the grooves of the bottom and top bars and in
small openings between the comb and frame parts.  They may of course be in
the rabbits of the boxes too.
 
I use Paradichlorobenzene (moth crystals, moth cakes).  I prefer the moth
cakes I can buy at the grocery store or wholesaler because they don't
dissipate as fast as crystals and I don't have to replace them like I used
to with crystals.  I realize that the crystals from MannLake Supply are the
only registered product on the market for wax moth control in bee hives.
But the moth cakes are the same active ingredient and are more cost
effective.  Each cake protects 20 cu. ft. of space, that's about six deep
supers.  Place one up between the combs of the top super, or under the hive
cover.  The fumes are heavier than air so fall to the bottom of the stack of
supers.  Tape any openings between the equipment to retain the chemical.  Up
here (on the coast) about 1/4 to /2 of the cake is still present in March.
 
I also protect white honey combs because they often have pollen in them if
they were close to the brood nest due to aberrant behaviors of the bees.  I
store my supers wet because they serve as bait combs when replaced on the
hives in the spring.  That is, they tend to draw bees up out of the brood
nest, reducing crowding and the tendency to swarm.
 
James C. Bach
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