Frank & Phronsie Humphrey
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> From: Paul Cronshaw, D.C. <[log in to unmask]>
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: Bee removal
> Date: Sunday, June 22, 1997 1:34 AM
>
snip
>  These bee removal nucs build up fast with two laying queens.  At times I
> have to swap them out with another queen right nuc to finish the job.
>
> Couple of questions come to mind:
>
> 1. What about trees or dwelling openings that are quite large (over 6"
> diameter)?
>
I would think  that you could drill a 1" hole in a piece of plywood and
nail it over the opening then seal the edges with foam.
 
> It would appear that putting some wire mesh over the large opening,
tacking
> down the edges first, then cutting the exact diameter hole in the wire
mesh
> to fit  the plastic tubing would be the best thing to do.
I'm not using any wire mesh at all.  I insert the tubing only part way
through the opening and seal around it.  This is where the foam is really
required.  You need to get enough on the outside to hold the tubing in
place.  It is very sticky straight from the can, becomes simi rigid,  and
starts to harden in about 15 to 20 minutes.
>
> 2.  Is the clear plastic tubing flexible or rigid?
Flexible.  I bought mine at Abe Shavin Hardware for $.87 per foot for the
small sizes and $1.00 for the largest.
>
> 3. I have not tried the foam sealer?  Is it toxic to bees?
To be Honest with you, I haven't checked.  However the only bees that I
have seen  die when using it, are those that get tangled in it while it is
still uncured and sticky.  once the surface cures enough to lose the
stickiness. they walk around on it with impunity.
>
> 4. Is is necessary to put the end of the tubing inside the entrance of
the
> bait hive?
I don't know that is.  I have always felt that the young bees that have
never seen the outside, would orient to the bait hive instead of hunting
the old entrance.
>
> I am interested if there are other methods of designing bee removal cones
> besides using wire mesh.
>
> Paul Cronshaw DC
> Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper
>
>