In response to the inquiry about cochineal, I consulted the local textile
expert, whose response, in part, is as follows:
 
 
 
Cochineal is one of a class of mites that produce
carminic acid, which is a common red dye. Its distribution runs from the
Carolinas to Southern Mexico, and its only food plant is the prickly pear
cactus. There are related species throughout the world, but none are so
prolific or so easy to harvest as the cochineal insect. It is still a
common dye in both cosmetics and foodstuffs.
 
The body of the female insect contains the dye, particularly pregnant females.
 
There is a thorough but poorly footnoted booklet called "Cochineal and the
Insect Dyes" by Fred Gerber, privately published.
 
Murex is the product of a conch native to the inner end of the
Mediterranean. There are shellfish in the waters around Mexico that produce
a similar compound but I don't know what its name is. Murex is a vat dye
(as is indigo), that is, it does not develop its full color until it comes
into contact with oxygen.
 
Cochineal produces a mordant dye, that is a dye that requires the addition
of mineral salts to make it bind to the fiber.
 
Both cochineal and the Mexican variety of murex-type dye were very valuable
trade commodities during colonial times. Fast reds were rare, in fact red
is still a very difficult color to dye fast because it is a high-energy
color and breaks down quickly.
 
 
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