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Kathy asked
 
>We  need info (please?) from beekeepers in harsh winter climates who are
currently and have successfully over the years "harvested" bees from
colonies during the winter for people who are currently using
apitherapy
 
>What we'd like to know is: What is your prefered method for removal?
 
I use a modified "Dustbuster" that sucks up the bees and deposits them in a
glass mason jar.
 
>Do you entice the bees to the inner cover on a warm day and collect there?
>If so, what is your "warm day" threshhold? freezing? 40 F?
 
I screen the entrances to the hive and keep it indoors in a completely dark
cool room in my basement.  I can not get the temp below about 13deg C (about
55F) although down to freezing would be better I think as the bees would not
be so anxious to find a way out and light would not disturb them as much.  I
keep a pail feeder with sugar syrup on all winter on a square of four 2X4s on
the inner cover (I do not use an outer cover when indoors).  One of these
2X4s is not fastened down so I can gently slide it aside and vacuum up the
bees that are working the syrup.  In much colder tempersatures (outside) I
have found that the bees do not work the syrup, so I'd have to hunt the
cluster and risk loosing the colony.
 
>Do you actually open the box and scoop from a frame, even though that may
cause
>them to break cluster?  No.  see above.
 
>Do you use the same colony(s) all winter or do you spread the risk to many
colonies?  One colony by this method all winter easily supplied one patient.
 
 
>To what extent have you experienced colony winter mortality to change?
I only supplied bees for apitherapy for one year and the hive was stronger
(larger population) than the ones over-wintered outdoors.  I have wintered
weak colonies before by same method and they are as strong as others by the
time I take them outdoors for the fruit blossom bloom.
 
>Do you take any additional steps to mitigate the effect bee removal has had
on the
colony(s) all winter, like candy boards &/or pollen substitute?
 
Only as described above.  A strong colony will usually have enough pollen
stores for spring buildup and with low temperature and little free comb there
seems to be little brood rearing between September and March.  I feed
primarily to make up for the loss to hungry bees that are more active than at
very low temperatures when less stores will take them through.  I was very
worried about the bees need to fly to avoid Nosema.  However I have noticed
none of it.  I think because of the low temperature and complete darkness.  I
sure would like comments from experts on my assumptions, particularly in this
paragraph.
 
>How many bees are you harvesting each winter and for how many different
people?
I took 10 to 30 bees a week from October through May from one hive.  This was
for one patient.  I feel I could have taken twice as many for the hive was
overly strong and swarmed a full month before outdoor wintered ones showed
signs of congestion.
 
>Do you enter into any sort of agreement with your customer like: if the
hive(s) die(s), you pay for the replacement package, >queen, or whatever?
My friend had offered to pay all "out of pocket" expenses that would have
covered this.  However later I supplied to someone else at $5 a week (about
20 fresh bees) who was reluctant to make a commitment of covering my losses.
 I came out ahead on this of course so lowered the price to $2.5 per week as
I was not trying to make a profit at apitherapy.
 
>Since we are still growing our operation, we really don't want to sacrifice
our potential spring splits, don't
>really want to buy packages, and don't really want to say no to these
people.
 
I understand completely and was pleasantly surprised to find that I collected
the unexpected early swarm AND made a split while keeping up with outdoor
wintered hives!  I should pay the customers for starting me on a way to save
weak hives and turn them into strong ones while
 
>Have I  forgotten to ask something important?
I think not.  But I would add that a red light can be used in the dark room
for bees do not see red and hence do not fly then.  Also I would recommend a
bee vacuum to ease the job of removing the bees.
 
If you have further questions please do not hesitate to ask.  If this thread
does not catch on, you can email me directly.
 
 
I was corresponding with someone recently and promised my plans for the
modified "Dustbuster".  Having lost connectivity for several weeks I no
longer have those peoples address.  I do apologize for this.  Would you
please contact me again with your address so that I can send the plans?  I
have now sketched them out but have no scanner, besides the bitmap would be
huge!
 
regards to all
 ...... george
located just north of Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
 
 
 
Or do you include the cost of replacement  in the price
you charge for the bees?
 
We've been supplying bees to people all summer who can't afford to pay
the shipping for bees to come all winter from southern beekeepers who
are providing this service.
Any advice will be useful,
Thanks in advance,
Kathy