To utilize 9 frames to advantage in Langstroth 10-frame brood chambers
there is a particular way you need to arrange things, ideally.  This means
separating the "shoulders" of each pair of adjacent frames by about 1/8".
This will give you about 1 1/2" spacing (a la Quinby), and ALSO about 1/2"
space left over at each of the side walls.
 
In other words, don't space the frames out evenly across, as you would in a
honey super.  Just space them a bit wider than if they were touching,
leaving a gap at each side-wall of about 1/2".
 
The bees then will apply some propolis in the spaces between the end-bars,
and from then on the frames will be easy to maintain at that spacing.
 
I am glad I switched to 9's, as some of the frames I'm using are very old.
With ten frames there was too much time spent prying things apart and
squeezing to get them to fit again.  The shoulders on the end bars
(especially on the old frames) were starting to break off, they were so
strongly cemented together by the bees.
 
YOU DON"T NEED "FOLLOWER BOARDS" to take up the extra space at the ends.
This is valuble clustering and ventilation space.  You may find that the
outer 2 combs get built out a bit wider along the walls.  The bees will
mostly store honey and pollen in them.  Still, they will be easy to remove
(much easier than if you had 10 combs).  Once you remove one you have all
the space you need to manipulate the remaining frames without rolling and
crushing bees.
 
Tip -- You can put "droney" or otherwise poor combs on the outsides (frame
#1 and frame #9), worst sides facing out.  Since the queen won't be laying
in these anyway, they don't need to be of exceptionally good quality, and
thus you can keep the very best worker combs towards the center, for brood.
 
If you do go this route, remember to use 10 frames until foundation is
drawn and then you can space them out more, after removing one.