Thank you.
----------
> From: Dave Green, Eastern Pollinator Newsletter <[log in to unmask]>
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: Cleaning used equipment
> Date: Monday, February 10, 1997 7:19 AM
>
> In a message dated 97-02-06 14:18:12 EST, [log in to unmask] (aarcher)
writes:
>
> << What is an appropriate method of cleaning up the hive bodies and
supers
> insuring that I don't spread disease to my new package bees? Since we
are
> limited in re$ources here and about 2 hours from the nearest village,
> chemicals (which I'm not too fond of anyway) are not easy to find and
> acquire. I live in a riparian area on the Gila river and am cautious of
> any unnatural residues which chemicals can leave behind. I've heard
fire
> can be used effectively to remove most disease problems, but is there a
> specific way to use fire reasonably. e.g.- Can I hold and rotate the
> equipment over an open flame to sterilize? Is there a minimum time or
> minimum heat requirement to do the job? What about using solar heating
in
> or under plastic sheeting? Would temperatures reach a high enough
level?
> How long would be required to do the job thouroughly? >>
>
> If the equipment was known to not have American foulbrood, I'd just
use
> it. Be sure to use a couple preventative treatments of terramycin each
year,
> and watch for any problems with AFB.
>
> If you know it did, or if you aren't sure, fire is a good idea.
Solar
> heat would not kill foulbrood spores.
>
> You might keep in mind that fouldbrood spores are everywhere, and bees
> normally resist the infection, unless they are genetically weak, or there
is
> an overwhelming source of infection. The unwashed jar of honey tossed
into
> the dumpster has plenty of spores. Your efforts to sanitize are used to
> reduce the exposure. You cannot remove every spore.
>
> Commercial beekeepers have a quick and simple way to char supers.
Get a
> round pointed shovel and a flat workspace away from anything that could
catch
> fire, such as a concrete or asphalt pad. Scrape or knock off any
propolis or
> burr comb that is obvious. Stack up the supers no higher than you can
reach,
> and put a flat piece of disposable plywood over the top, except leave a
tiny
> crack. You have created a chimney. Have some water buckets or a fire
> extinguisher handy by, just in case.
>
> Now drop a paper towel, soaked with gas down your chimney, and follow
with
> a lighted match. Be careful! If you are looking down when it
ignites,
> you won't have any eyebrows, or worse.
>
> Take the shovel tip and wedge it under the bottom super corner. You
can
> lift it up slightly to let in air, and really get the fire going. Set it
down
> and the fire dies back. (With the shovel) move the top carefully back to
> close off the top, and the fire will go out.
>
> It's easy and quick. You can use the shovel created draft to burn
them
> just enough to char off the wax and propolis from the interior, but not
burn
> through the boxes.
>
> If they fall, or you accidently knock off the cover, you'll have wood
> igniting, and you'll probably burn through some boxes, so a little
finesse is
> required, but it's not hard.
>
> The slow way, more expensive, and just as risky, is to use a propane
torch
> to clean them up. You'll have to scorch all inner surfaces. This is
outdoor
> activity. Don't try this in your garage or warehouse.
>
> [log in to unmask] Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC
> 29554 (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service, Pot o'Gold Honey Co.)
>
> Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green
> http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html
>
> Jan's Sweetness and Light Varietal Honeys and Gift Sets
> http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm
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