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From:
"Dave Green, Eastern Pollinator Newsletter" <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Discussion of Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Thu, 18 Apr 1996 09:09:11 -0400
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In a message dated 96-04-17 14:12:56 EDT, [log in to unmask] (Laura A. Downey)
writes:
 
>Subj:  Lazy bees?
>Date:  96-04-17 14:12:56 EDT
 
>
>Last year I restarted with two new colonies.  They were given existing comb
>in addition to new frames of foundation.  For whatever reason, they chose
>not to draw comb on some of the new frames.  Not having anything else to put
>in the hive, I moved the frames around, putting the empty ones to the
>outside of the brood chambers, and the full ones to the center.
>
>Now, after having inspected the hives several times since February, it
>appears that they chewed the wax off of some of the frames, and drew some
>wax in small scattered areas.  There is brood in some of the small areas of
>wax, so I cannot remove those frames.
>
>Were my bees lazy?  Why would they choose not to draw comb, but instead chew
>the foundation?  What is the best way to replace the foundation considering
>that there is brood present?  When is the latest that I can replace the
>foundation so that I do not run into this problem again?
>
>
   If there is a flow, they will work.  If there is not a flow the only
alternative is a "flow by Dixie Crystal"  ("southern" for feeding - that's a
brand of sugar).
 
  We have had the latest spring I can remember here, and a lot of our
foundation was ruined, because the anticipated flow did not happen.  Finally
the bees now have their bellies full, and foundation is coming along.
 
   I don't think we have ever had it so close.  There has never been less
feed on the bees.  We had a couple hundred colonies that did not have a
single cell of capped honey; they were living day by day, and we were running
around with our dwindling reserves of syrup to spot feed.  It finally turned
around late last week, and good colonies are starting to cap new honey.  Each
day, I relax a little more.  I was really holding my breath, wondering if we
could hold on any longer.
 
   I had quite a few of my single story hives with an extra deep on them, to
try to get more brood.  Normally by this point they would be jammed with
brood, and a few are. But most of them had only a frame or two, as queens
were just starting upstairs.  Now most of them are plugged with nectar, and
we won't get the brood we anticipated.
 
   With less brood to feed, it may increase the honey production.  We are
watching to see.  At the current price of honey, that may not be all bad
 :<o).
 
 
   We are taking out the damaged foundation.  Some will be discarded.  Most
will be cleaned of the burr comb, or comb built alongside it, then will be
placed between two good frames of newly drawn comb.  Often the bees will fix
it, though it probably will not be as good as it could have been.
 
   If bees have removed wax to bare plastic (Duragilt), or to vertical wires,
they will not build it back.  You have to look at each frame and decide.  I
carry wire cutters in my pocket and snip off all vertical wires that are
exposed.  For some strange reason I can't explain, horizontal wires don't
seem to bother the bees, so I leave them in place.  If they are properly
centered between two good frames of comb, bees will build the midrib of the
new comb right on the wire.
 
   A principle to keep in mind, when you have damaged foundation to clean up,
or if you have old comb with holes, exposed wires, etc., is that strong hives
want to make more drones, so they will fill in mostly with drone sized cells.
 On the other hand bees that have already fulfilled their urge to reproduce,
ie.: starter colonies with young queens or cells, will usually build worker
sized cells.
 
  Another principle:  Don't put foundation in the wall position.  Unless
there is a tremendous flow, they won't build it well.  They usually will
build brace comb to the wall. We put a frame of already drawn foundation
against the outside wall.  If we don't have it, we will return and place one
of the drawn center frames out, and move the undrawn ones from the walls
inward.
 
   We use our frames with a lot of drone cells in that wall position.  That
satisfies their urge to raise drones, but they have to be ready first.  When
they start the buildup, in the center of the brood nest, we want plenty of
worker brood first.
 
   One good method to pop out foundation in a hurry, also can be used to save
the bees from a swarmy colony.  When you find one that has cells preparatory
to swarming, place two or three frames of sealed brood in a new hive with a
cell or two.  Handle these frames carefully without any shaking (some say
without even turning them up), because the young queens inside are extremely
fragile in the early stages of pupation.
 
   Fill out the rest of the hive with foundation.  Move the original hive to
a new site nearby.  It probably will not swarm, because it has given up its
field force, and some of its brood.  One of the remaining cells will become
the young queen that will "do in" the worn out mother, and give you a nice
strong hive.  Better super it.
 
   Set the nuc with foundation on the original site to catch the field force.
 With all the nectar coming in, they will pop out the foundation so fast, you
won't believe it.  If you still aren't satisfied, and want guarantees, give
them some syrup.
 
   There is no such thing as a lazy bee.  They want to work.  They only need
a flow.
If there is a flow, and the bees still are not up to par, they are sick.  It
may be varroa or tracheal mites, chalkbrood, foulbrood, viruses, etc.  Look
at the bees.  Smell them.  If they look poor and smell sour, don't nurse them
along.  If it's American foulbrood, burn.
Otherwise kill the queen, requeen, or give them a cell.  Treat for varroa, if
it is there. They will come back.
 
   May all your flowers be nectar filled.
 
[log in to unmask]    Dave Green,  PO Box 1200,  Hemingway,  SC  29554
 
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