Below is a complete synopsis of the responses I've received, both
from bee-liners and others, about the killing jar problem.  This
is in thanks to those who sent ideas and in response to those who
wanted to know what other people said.  Please note I have not
tried any of these ideas yet myself, so can't vouch for them.
    I would very much like to hear any comments or corrections
regarding this list if you have any.  It may become part of a book.
Thanks!
 
-- Liz Day
[log in to unmask]
 
 
The problem:
 
Killing jars sweat inside, then furry bumblebees get matted and wet.
Poisons that kill slowly make this harder to avoid.
 
The solutions and discussion:
 
1. Chemicals that kill quickly:
 
Liquid cyanide kills quickly but I consider it too dangerous to use.
A broken jar could be fatal to the person using it.
 
Cyanide apparently comes in crystals, which can be handled with
tweezers/forceps.  Bottles exist that are made with a cartridge
in the lid to hold these crystals.  (Company called Bioquip, I'll
send their address if you ask.)   However, it's still cyanide and
I wouldn't give it to students nor keep it in the house if I had kids.
Is said to work well on bees though.
 
Methyl chloroform (this is NOT the same as regular chloroform, which is
not recommended for various reasons) is also supposed to kill bees fast.
It can be gotten in the form of an aerosol used for cleaning electronic
parts. (Name and address of product on request.)  You spray the stuff
onto a paper towel, then stick the towel in the jar with the bee.
I would not use this stuff indoors, breathe it, or get it on my skin.
I would avoid leaving an aerosol can out in the hot sun where it might
pop.  This stuff is said to kill the bees in a few minutes.
 
One person suggested ether, in the form of aerosol cans of automobile
starter fluid.  This would be used in the same way with a paper towel.
Both these two chemicals are very volatile so one would have to
recharge the killing jar constantly, or use a spray with every bee.
 
Anti-pest strips, the kind people hang up, might work in a killing jar.
I dont' know how long it would take, but whatever pesticide they
use is pretty deadly to insects.
 
Diethyl ether?  Is this the same as "ether"?
 
 
2. Other ways to kill quickly:
 
CRP says that microwaving bees for ~10 seconds kills them.  Apparently
the specimens are still in OK shape after this.
 
Freezing works well.    You can leave the bees in the freezer
and they'll stay soft until you have time to mount them properly.
Let them thaw in the container, don't take them out, so moisture will
condense on the outside of the container not on the bee.
An alternate is to anesthetize the bees  in the field with one of the
slower-acting
chemicals, then put the inert bees in a dry container, take them home
and freeze them.
 
 
SEVERAL PEOPLE MENTIONED DRY ICE OR CO2.  CAN SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME
HOW THIS WOULD BE HANDLED?  I have no experience with the stuff at all.
 
 
3. Keeping jars dry:
 
Many people said they use paper towels, KimWipes, bridal veil, or
tissue to keep the bees away from the sides of the jar.  Some people
stuff almost the whole jar with stuff to immobilize the bees until
they are dead.  If the tissue you use soaks up moisture, it will have
to be replaced at times.  One can line the entire sides and bottom
of the jar with paper towel, so that the bees cannot ever touch the
sides.
 
Plastic jars, like peanut butter jars, don't sweat as much inside as
glass jars.
 
One can keep one's chemical away from the bees by making a sort of
cartridge (like the one for cyanide crystals) from one of those
little plastic film containers.  Tape/glue it to the bottom of the
killing jar, put cotton in it, put your chemical onto the cotton
with an eyedropper.  Just another substitute for plaster of Paris.
 
Keep extra dry jars to put inert bees into.
 
Inert bees in their dry vials can be kept cool in "a small hand-held
cooler" -??  This sounds like a wonderful thing to have,
does anyone know where to get one?  Eddie Bauer sells insulated
lunch bags. I dont' know how long they'd stay cold in the August sun.
 
 
4. Handling chemicals that kill slowly (used because they are safer):
 
The infernal ethyl acetate / n-butyl acetate (available in some nail-
polish removers) / ethyl enthanoate (ethanoate?).
 
These take several hours to kill bees.  They are troublesome because
you can't tell when the bee is really dead, and because they give
the bees time to regurgitate nectar and to beat themselves up.
    I think they are pretty safe to use, though.
To use, recharge the jar frequently; keep watch and wipe the sides
dry, use lots of tissue; keep the jar out of the sun if possible.
Proper use requires vigilance while the bees are expiring and
that the collector not be too greedy in catching more bees than s/he
can handle.  These chemicals are for people more emotionally mature
than I.
 
5. Restoring bees that have already gotten wet and matted:
 
S. Cameron says you can re-fluff their fur with a hairdryer set on low.
That they can be rinsed in a solution of Cascade (dishwasher detergent)
and water.  Rinse with fresh water and blow-dry.
 
 
Thank you bee-liners for all your help!!
-- LD