Etienne Tardif wrote (quot.):
>>>What is too much ventilation? How is that defined for you? Does anyone
use screened boards (open) with a top entrances in winter in non-insulated
hives (not recommended in my humble opinion)? >>>>>
I've read about your bad experience with both screened boards and top
entrances open in winter. I think even in insulated hives wintering would
not be much better in these conditions. So I completely agree with you and
would not recommend it. In fact I am not a fan of screened boards at all,
but of course, I see that these are extremely popular.
Here is how I imagine an ideal hive configuration (regardless of hive type).
1. Wooden hive stands, that are probably mostly used in the USA and not in
Europe (just looking at Dadant's website) are excellent and I would always
use it but would try to have it a bit higher. Juist would use a front board
that is not slanted. Also, I was even thinking about the same stand that is
made of concrete instead of wood but it is more complicated to make and is
very heavy.
2. Standard wooden bottom board, so would never use screened one, except
maybe for some experiments and comparisons.
For a long time I've been thinking about having the entrance on the bottom
board closed during the same season and I am going to have that as a
general practice.
Although there are some advantages of an open bottom entrance (as almost
everyone practices), I see some disadvantages too. According to my
observations, when these entrances are closed, bees in such hives are
calmer. I think it is because nobody irritates or attacks them and they
don't need to guard the entrance (just remembered the recent story on this
group about bees and animal poo). Also it is much easier for bees to guard
the hive. In cold days, wasps can easily enter the hive because bees are
clustered.
3. Between the bottom board and brood boxes is a slatted rack, very similar
as one that Dadant makes, but higher, if possible then 10cm (4 inches) or
higher, if not then two inches. Something excellent. My first five bee
hives, 30 years ago, had a slatted rack two inches high.
4. The next are two wooden brood boxes for wintering, in the case of
Langstroth hive. I mean deep boxes 9-½”, with lower ones, one could
consider having three or more. Each box should have a round entrance 1 inch
(25mm) diameter.
5. It is possible to use a wooden inner cover, so plywood is not my
recommendation. I am thinking about using simple thick cotton cloth as a
cover since I see that as something ideal. The cloth must not be dyed nor
treated with chemicals. Some other suitable material could be used too. On
top bars you could put some thin wooden stiks so that bees can move. For
the summer, I find it very useful to use plastic foil instead of cotton
cloth, because it is so good for collecting quality propolis. You will have
propolis on the edges of top bars, not on the foil. Cotton cloth can be
placed over the plastic foil during the summer and plastic foil may not
cover the whole box, so the air can circulate through the cloth.
6. Below the hive cover, I think it would be ideal to have one simple empty
super (without frames), for example 5 11/16" deep or less. I am surprised
how expensive it is in the USA. In case you have a Garden Cupper Top Cover
you don't need that super, just skip it.
7. On the top, using a telescoping beehive cover.
Garden Cupper Top Cover would be excellent to have on the top. When I was a
young beekeeper, I didn't like it, the same as I didn't like to see a hive
covered with cloth, but times change. :)
Of course, having such configuration would be very expensive, but I am just
talking about something ideal from my point of view.
Regarding insulation, I think such configuration would not need additional
insulation. Probably having a supper (honey box) or even deep brood box
full of honey over the two brood boxes, would be more than ideal. Frames
full with honey have big thermal inertia and it is so helpful during the
winter.
And regarding condensation, as I understand it appears when there is a big
difference between temperatures on the two sides of a board. So I think
insulation would be more useful to avoid big temperature differences (that
causes condensation) then it directly helps the bee cluster.
kind regards
Predrag Cvetkovic
Serbia
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