Dry ice has been my go-to method for putting down aggressive bees in city/suburb areas. I must correct some false statements here, I have done this many times and it took a while to get it right.

“ Set it up ahead of time with bee-proof screening stapled across the top box.  Screen the lower entrance in. And proceed as above.”

Screening will dilute the efficacy of the dry ice, which will sublimate and the co2 will drift right through it. Seal seal seal, everything must be airtight. Also you need at least 20 lbs of ice for a mature hive, about $35 at Smart and Final. 

I wrap the entire hive with Saran wrap after duct taping a solid bar of wood over the entrance. Don’t think the bees won’t remove their propolis seal in an effort to escape: They will, which is why any exterior seam that can’t be wrapped in plastic wrap should be duct taped. 

“Bees will be dead the next day. “

I only wish. It can take as long as 5-6 days before you can confidently open the hive with your shop vac in hand and know the family dog is safe. Usually I return and put my ear on the hive after the third day. If there’s still buzzing, give it another few days. 

Having said all of that, dry ice is at the bottom of my list of preferred ways to fix this type of situation. Although one can salvage almost all the bee bread and capped honey (for other bees to consume), the ensuing shop-vac cleanup of bee carrion is hideous and the smell of decomp remains around for days. I’m thinking to try the kerosene/lacquer thinner/solvent method next time. 
Ruth in Los Angeles

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