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> How deep are the frames of your brood chamber?
8 5/8" from the top of the top bar to the bottom of the bottom bar.
> In the U.S. frames typically hang nearly flush with the bottoms of our
> boxes, so
> there would be no space above an excluder unless it had a rim.
We have bottom bee space, so the tops of the frames are flush with the top
of the box. I have a mix of excluders accumulated over the years. Most are
now just the plain flat slotted metal (used be zinc but the newer steel ones
are much more durable):
http://www.thorne.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=excluder&product_id=1859
and these just rest on the top bars (and the top of the box of course).
The framed excluders that I have give a 1/4" space between the excluder and
the top bars.
Seems to make no difference which I use as far as thymol treatment is
concerned.
Two things are critical - a space above the thymol (hence the eke) and
warmth. Outside temperature is, in my opinion, irrelevant if there is brood
present as the heat rising from the brood will cause the thymol to evaporate
(or deliquesce) effectively; the only problems occur when there is no brood
and the weather is cold - then it just sits there in the lid.
> So how much space is there between the top bars of the brood chamber and
> the bottom bars of the honey super (this would include any space due to
> the
> queen excluder if I read you right).
1/4" - and with a framed excluder there will be another 1/4" below the
excluder
> And do bees have issues in trying to bridge that space?
No. Some bees are inclined to build brace comb between boxes, but that is a
trait that we select against as those colonies also tend to build it between
frames. That selection is not high on our priorities (obviously there are
much more important things to breed for), but we do avoid those that build a
lot as it makes manipulation more time consuming and there is a risk of
crushing bees - especially the queen!
Best wishes
Peter
52.144244, -1.503509
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