Here is a nother post that seems to have been eaten by the LISTSERV after I sumitted it over a half-hour ago.
I'm re-sending it using the web interface at www.BEE-L.org .  Wonder if the other copy will show up, or was eaten by the Spam filter?
--

> I will say that these pillow tops "work" -   hives with them will have a 
big mound of snow atop, while those without will show a mound of snow with a 
chimney melted thru it where you'd expect the cluster to be.

Are you referring to the ones shown at 
http://www.miteaway.com/html/advantages.php ?

We've used pillows year-round for many years (15?), but without any inner 
cover, under a telescoping lid.

As far as moisture is concerned, Mike is right.  Insulation is not 
insulation is not insulation if it is wet.  Also the most important 
insulation is the insulation placed on top of the hive.  It does not seem to 
matter if the top of the hive is vented and cold air can get in, insulation 
on top really helps.

For a whole lot of info, including how to make your own, search for 
"pillows" at http://honeybeeworld.com/beesearch.htm or go direct to the 
Selected Topic List http://www.honeybeeworld.com/diary/menus/topics.htm

FWIW, the most basic, cheapest pillow most available is just a chunk of 
Fibreglass (pink or yellow) in the R-factor of your choice in a garbage bag 
folded over and taped with any waterproof tape.  Use the .heavy-duty bag. 
The bees can chew through the cheap ones if you place them directly on the 
top bars.  Pillows also can go on top of the inner cover if you prefer).

Joan Durand near Onoway, Alberta, makes heavy-duty commercial quality 
pillows sized 22-3/4" x 19" (approx).  They are sewn together using tarp 
material, black on one side and silver on the other, with a single layer of 
bonded poly (Kodel) batting which ranges from 1/2 to 1" thick for $3.25 
each.  The stitching is in 1/4" from the edge, then another round of 
stitching is in 1/4" from the first.  The batting is loose, but does not 
move, since it is only slightly smaller than the stitching.  Apparently if 
it is sewn in, then the pillow does not flex and putting on lids is 
difficult.  She will make double layers or any other design on special 
order. She also makes wraps, sized 7'6" square to wrap 4 hives and they cost 
$57.65 each.  You can reach her at 1-780-967-5984 or fax to 1-780-0380.  Her 
email is unreliable she says.

I've seen the pillows and they seem to me to be pretty good.  They are 
larger than mine, but also tougher and should take heavy use quite well. 
They extend about an inch and a half beyond the box on each end and on each 
side.  This is good under a telescoping lid, since it seals well and sheds 
water.

Why use pillows, also called quilts, instead of inner covers, etc.?
They seal well against wind
They insulate well and can be doubled or tripled for winter
They are neither warm or cold, since thin plastic has little thermal mass
They are flexible
They crush fewer bees than wood
The bees like them
They can be lifted slightly to inspect without 'cracking' the seal
They can be pulled back or folded to provide a top entrance
They do not get glued down the same way as wood
They can accommodate patties or fondant underneath and still seal well
They are easy to stack and handle
They are inexpensive and long-lasting

Pillows are best used with telescoping lids equipped with a 1 to 1-1/2" high 
rim of wood mailed inside the top edge to press down on the quilt (pillow) 
at the outer edge while allowing the pillow to lift in the middle if there 
are patties  or sugar underneath.

These lids, if made deep enough, will work fine with a Mite-Away II or 
similar home-made mite treatment if the pillows are left off for the 
treatment duration, eliminating the need for separate 'rims' which are a 
huge PITA.

When adding a 1 or 1-1/2" lift to many telescoping lids already in service, 
though, there is likely to be very little 'lip' since many such lids are 
only 2" or so deep.  I suppose a strip could be added to deepen them, 
though.

BTW, now that Miteaway II are off the market, those who were finding them 
effective enough for their purposes can make their own.  I think the info is 
in the BEE-L archives at http://www.BEE-L.org.  They can actually be made 
fairly cheaply.  I don't recommend them.  Dri-loc 50 pads are much more 
effective since they can be managed better.

Any commercial beekeepers I know do not use inner covers.  They use canvas, 
burlap, plastic sheets, pillows, or 16 x 20 carpet chunks on the top bars.

Styrofoam is used, mostly by hobbyists.  It has the disadvantage that it is 
eaten by bees, gets dog-eared, and does not conform to surfaces, allowing 
air to get between it and what is being insulated.  I do have Styrofoam 
hives, though and they work well.  In answer to the original question, I 
think that Styrofoam inserted as follower board is a good idea compared to 
leaving  feeders in or leaving empty combs.  They would reduce a 10-frame 
box to the equivalent of an 8-frame box, and beekeepers have kept bees in 
8-frame (narrow) equipment very successfully.  All the caveats about 
adequate stores for the cluster apply, though. 

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