----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Morris" <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: [BEE-L] Sterilization Questions
>
> paraffin vs.Beeswax for the wax component.
>
> Cost analysis please! The reason I asked Randy
> for a source is the paraffin can get damned
> expensive! Beeswax!?!??! ...
> ...Aaron Morris - thinking profit (shame on me!)!
Not really, it's a good point. :-)
To begin with this method of wood preservation
can't even remotely be compared with other
preservatives. Consider contamination from the
pressure treated (PT) wood, and the effects on
the bees it doesn't even come close! Now why
would I mention pressure treated? Maybe
because if you just ignore all the chemical issues
for a second, pressure treated comes closest to
the toughness of the wax/rosin dip. I've been
personally told to expect 20 years minimum. If
you do it at the proper temperature it WILL
completely absorb. Of course if you DO
consider the effects of contamination... testing
found trace PT chemical contamination in north
American wax, and I believe honey. The new
pressure treatment too. So where are we? Well...
cost for one thing. I don't know about you but I
would rather dip once, and keep the woodware
in like new condition, without deterioration I've
seen with paint stain, oils etc. (no, I don't
seriously consider PT wood as an alternative)
Another point is the sterilization... your not
going to get that with the other treatments. I
don't treat inside, just bare wood in there (and
eventually propolis) The dip covers
EVERYTHING. It covers and sterilizes every
inch. 15, 20 years from now just take it and dip
it again for another 15/20 years. Got AFB?
Get dip. Dip kills AFB. Why burn when you
can dip?
Ok now about the wax... the first thing
everyone says is "what will the paraffin do to
the bees?", ok, good question, so why take a
chance? Use bees wax and I doubt there will
be any issue with that. Cost? Remember done
properly, very little wax/rosin mix is used. Do
it too cold and all you need to do is put it
back in at the right temperature. Beeswax can
take higher temperatures too.
By all accounts it is a relatively inexpensive
treatment, taking all the previous into account.
It's long lived, sterile, easy on the wood,
eliminates maintenance for the finish, and it
can easily be reapplied.
Like I said, the treatment of choice. Now if
only there were a "Club" dip tank.....
(Hmmm...) not a bad idea. While you are at
it. I have a branding iron. All you need is
a brand with your name/mark on it.
Dip em.
Brand em.
Sounds like we're out working on the range.
By the way, want to see it?
Look here (thanks Michael):
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesdipping.htm
Tim
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