I've had good experience (none on vintage drilling rigs ... but plenty on wooden decks, footbridges, boats, stairs and railings) with the formula that the U.S. Navy often specifies when it contracts for preservation treatment for exposed wood structures:

The formula is: 3 pounds borax, 2 pounds boric acid, plus 5 gallons of water with varying amounts of propylene glycol added (this is the major component of the non-toxic automotive antifreezes sold commercially ... it's usually pink in color and fairly reasonably priced since it's largely mixed-down with water already ... the pink is a dye to distinguish it from the highly toxic green ethylene glycol based antifreezes... propylene glycol is colorless, odorless and tasteless). The propylene glycol is essential in the first couple of coatings/sprayings as it serves to "carry" the boron compounds, allowing them to penetrate deeply into the wood and thereby providing long-term (essentially permanent) anti-microbial/anti-fungal protection. I would use a 50/50 mix of water and ethylene glycol for the first two coatings and decrease in 15% steps to a minimum of 25% for the last coatings. It's better to "mop" on the stuff than spraying (since you get a lot less exposure to the chemicals ... none of which are toxic, but all can be irritating if respirated as an aerosol or dust when mixing the ingredients, especially to people with allergies).

Mixing: put the dry ingredients in a large container and stir them together well (wearing a good 3M particulate filter mask); heat the liquid fraction to 160-210 degrees Fahrenheit (use your outside grill or portable camping stove outside) in another container and pour it over the dry mixture and stir. The solution needs to be agitated regularly during use as the borates have a tendency to crystallize (this doesn't hurt anything as to effectiveness, but will have a tendency to plug up the nozzle on srayers ... which is another reason I've found mopping or brushing a better alternative than spraying). Using the solution while it is still hot (and while the wood is hot ... like on a very hot summer day) will greatly aid the depth of penetration of the preservative borates and give better results. Don't do it if your wood is cold.

Don't mix-up more of the solution than you intend to use ... it does not have a very long shelf-life.

Bob Skiles

PS - I disclaim all liabilities; use this information at your own risk.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"There is also an artificial aristocracy founded on wealth and birth, without either virtue or talents ... The artificial aristocracy is a mischievous ingredient in government, and provisions should be made to prevent its ascendancy."

- Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kristin Mravinec" <[log in to unmask]>
To: <[log in to unmask]>
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: Restoration of Spudder Rig


> It was recommended that I cross post to this listserv.
> 
> We have an 1918 Wichita Fall Spudder, Model #66 rig in our collection 
> that the Board has decided to restore. It is a wooden rig with metal 
> components displayed outdoors without protection. I have been given an 
> August 15th deadline to come up with a conservator/restorer to help with 
> the project as we are being considered for a centennial grant. Does 
> anyone know of an conservator/restorer/consultant who has worked with 
> similar projects or materials. I will be checking AIC's website but 
> wanted to narrow down some names first. If needed, I can attach some 
> photographs of the rig's poor condition.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Kristin
> 
> -- 
> Kristin Mravinec, Curator
> Greater Southwest Historical Museum
> 35 Sunset Drive
> Ardmore, OK 73401
> Phone: 580.226.3857
> Fax: 580.226.3857
> [log in to unmask]