A few points on the recent postings about EFB.  (Incidentally, nobody seemed
to know how it is handled in Europe):

 Dave said:

>    We've come to regard susceptibility to EFB as a genetic weakness, and
> that good breeding can eliminate it.

It would seem logical that if it possible to breed bees that are resistant
to AFB then the same could be done for EFB; perhaps the mechanism is the
same and AFB resistant bees would there be resistant to EFB?

Bob said:

> Controlling EFB without antibiotics is futile in my opinion when on the
> scale talked about both publicly (and privately) in the U.K. Many are
> using> antibiotics illegally in the U.K. I have been told as the
alternative was
> not working.

Yes, there were rumours about antibiotic abuse, but Ministry tests last year
found no evidence.  I think that to say 'Many are using antibiotics
illegally in the U.K.' is a bit sweeping  - and probably incorrect!

The alternative (that had only limited success) was the previous method of
treatment (i.e. burn if over 50% larvae infected, treat with OTC otherwise).
However, trials of the new shook swarm treatment (shake on to clean
foundation, feed OTC, burn old comb) is working very well and will be tried
without the OTC this year.  There are also trials of a new treatment using
Paenibacillus larvae ssp. pulvifaciens to fight EFB that is also showing
considerable promise.

The use of antibiotics (presumably OTC) to try to control EFB seems futile
because the antibiotic does not kill the bacteria - it is a bacteriostat,
not a bacteriocide.  Its only action is to prevent the bacteria from
multiplying and give the bees a chance to clean out the infection
(presumably the more hygienic the bees the better they would do it).  Very
often the
infection reappears when the antibiotic treatment stops.  Of course, you can
keep pumping in antibiotic if you wish ... (unless you live in the UK).

Robin said:

>Bee Inspectors carry a tub
>of water and scrub hive tool, gloves and smoker between opening hives.  It
>is practical for hobbyists who have high personal standards of hygiene but
>would be too time consuming for professional beekeepers.

As a semi-professional beekeeper, I cannot agree with this one!  My view is
that most professional beekeepers, in common with other farmers, set very
high standards and have a great deal of knowledge.  In contrast, many hobby
beekeepers have very little knowledge of basic bee biology and even less
about hygiene when handling colonies.  Incidentally, the 'water'
is actually soda solution (1kg washing soda to 5 litres of water with a dash
of washing up liquid to act as a wetting agent). I also use this solution
and wear rubber household
gloves with disposable latex gloves over them; my hive tools live in the
solution and a clean one is used for each hive; gloves are washed in the
solution after each hive.  The disposable gloves (£1.50 per 100) are
discarded after each apiary.   It takes very little time, hive tools are
always
clean and a pleasure to use, the gloves are more sting proof than leather
and no infection is spread between colonies or apiaries.

Robin also said:

>Even if resistant bees were introduced, all infected equipment would still
>need to be destroyed as it apparently remains infectious for at least 40
years and not all bees will
>be of new resistant

If the bees are resistant, why will some not be resistant?

AFB (which forms spores) has been quoted as being able to survive for at
least 70 years, but I do not recall seeing any survival times quoted for the
non spore-forming EFB.  Are you confusing EFB and AFB?

Someone (Bob?) suggested the there could be a geographic influence.  This is
certainly the case in the UK where almost all EFB and AFB is confined to the
southern half of the country, especially the south east:

http://www.csl.gov.uk/prodserv/cons/bee/diseasemaps/maps.cfm?CFID=286379&CFT
OKEN=23318769

Peter Edwards
[log in to unmask]
www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
-- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and  other info ---
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::